Selling my S4

[attilathehun]

   http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=394481139 . Would prefer she goes to a good home. Full disclosure of any issues I am aware of guaranteed and VAGCOM I bought to read codes will be included to a purchaser if he/she is a nice person 

[BB]

Cambelt and all that done?
I just did OOOO (scots)and spinners s6 belts and pumps plus thermostat for $650 all up (respectively) if anybody needs that done.

[user2154]

That's a shame, why are you selling it?

[attilathehun]

@BB - The cambelt will need to be done as Audi recommend they get done every 6 years regardless and this car was parked up for six years. Thats a good price by the way and if my circumstances change I will be happy to pay you that to do it.

@user2154. I lost my job and am re-evaluating my life (navel gazing) right now. I bought the car on a whim originally and I cant justify keeping it. I would like it to go to a good home if possible.

[BB]

Oh man I'm so sorry to hear that Attila
Things are getting so damn hard out there.
What are your skills? Always worth selling yourself wherever you have an audience these days.
Good luck with the sale.

[attilathehun]

  Thanks mate, but its not all doom and gloom. I'm in IT with a CTI focus, -  I can get another job reasonably easy, but I want to use this oppo to look at starting a business again, or perhaps do something totally different.

[user2154]

BB, $650.00 sounds like a fair price, and there is a bit of labour involved.

Does that include both belts, roller bearing, water pump? All these need replacing at the same time. (sorry re-read your post and you do include it). Do you use a 3/4 inch drive torque wrench and the crank lock tool? Easy enough job if you have those.

Attila, pays to have a crank pulley cog on hand also, a common failure, another US$68.40 + p&p, not too bad with the high dollar right now, and for peace of mind. Click the pic you will see the crack in mine around the keyway after 250,000km.



According to the collective knowledge of the Audi enthusiast forums, from what I have read imo, it's not known what causes the failure exactly.

It seems to be a toss up between simply age/fatigue, but with great suspicion cast upon the practice of using a rattle gun to secure the crank bolt (which is common practice in New Zealand), but a rattle gun doesn't even approach the 450nm required for this bolt. I can tell you first hand that when we (my friend and I) loosened my crank bolt, it was not tightened to a torque of 450nm, according to my friend.. (it's hard to fathom how much 450nm is to the inexperienced like me, but we both undid the bolt (one on each side of the metre long wrench) and we both did up the bolt to 450nm and there was a big and noticeable difference between the two).


crank pulley part number: 034105263A

http://genuineaudiparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214407


timing kit

http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-components-audi-i5-20vt-timing-belt-kit-22t-aanabyadu-p-19588.html

or they sell their own version of the crank pulley cog

http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-components-audi-i5-20vt-crank-pulley-cog-audi-i5-super-torque-p-13332.html

US$235.96 including shipping for the kit alone or, US$335.12 including shipping with their crank pulley.

Kit = US$235.96 = NZ$281.72, no GST no customs fees.

Kit + crank pulley = US$335.12 = NZ$399.855 - just under the $400.00 limit for customs to charge GST so if you are unlucky and the NZ dollar goes back down when your shipment arrives..., + NZ 15% + about $20-40 NZ customs fees, can't remember exactly what they charge but they do add a small fee. NZ$500.00 more or less IF customs charge.

[user2154]

Another option, park it up for a while and put the rego on hold

Or another option, if you want to check you timing belt, its easy to get the timing belt cover off...

To remove the serpentine belt tensioner: release it, use a 17mm wrench to lever it up away from the serpentine belt and then an allen key or bolt to hold it in place (there is a hole for this). Then remove the three allen key bolts that hold in the tensioner housing onto the bracket. Remove it.

You can then remove your timing belt cover without interference and view your timing belt and related parts in full glory.

* Of course I'm not saying that just because you cannot see a crack in the belt it is not going to break, but it might give you a good indication of the general condition of the belt.

** For the record, I recommend you get the timing belt and related parts replaced at some stage, due to the mileage and unknown condition of your vehicle.

*** I also recommend you do not sell your vehicle, how many cars have you owned that have a 5 cylinder engine apart from this one? My guess is none.

**** I am also drunk.

***** forged pistons?

****** a crankshaft with no known breaking point?

******* and you're selling this?

[attilathehun]

  yeah you may be right, thats why I'm not trying very hard to sell it and will most likely tell people I dont like to piss off when they come and look at it  . The issue is that I only need two cars one of which my wife needs to do some serious mileage with for her work. That rules out the Audi - just on fuel consumption alone, but also coz its my precioussssss, and I inspect it every time she's driven it lol.

The other vehicle needs to be a utility vehicle as I am using this time to work on my boat etc and I dont like carting anti-foul, tarpaulins, marine ply and the like in the Audi.

So the thinking is, let the Audi go a good home, buy the wife a shoppingcart thats light on juice, and I already have a RAV4 that I use as a utility vehicle.

[user2154]

Fair enough it's not really the car to cart stuff around in, I'm always noticing new cuts/scratches in my upholstery that I am sure were not there last week...

But the reason I love this car (even though it is an auto) is that I park my car on an everyday basis next to about 100 other vehicles, and to be honest I smile almost every day when I am walking through the parking lot at the end of the day and see the contrast in the beauty of the design between this car and all the japas in the parking lot.

/wank smilie

Also, there are a whole bunch of career options that benefit from advanced/semi advanced IT skills these days.. but as for openings, in my experience it's always been who you know.

[BB]

Err bit much to read all that.
I did the cambelt the bearing the water pump and the thermostat. Drive belt was fine.
Yes I have the crank tool and I use loctite and do it up as tight as it needs but I don't have a torque wrench that goes to 450.
The crank pulleys break up if they get rattled on and also they can break as the bolt is so tight it drags the whole lot sideways as it gets undone and cracks the little thingy.

I charge around 6hrs cause I'm good.

[attilathehun]

Hey BB,
Is that $650 price including spares or for labour only?

[BB]

Ha ha all up.
Labour only...ha ha I wish.
6 hrs @$50 = $300.
If you can't do one in 6 hrs your not a working mechanic.
We only get the time it says in the cambelt book pretty much.
Gotta work fast these days but you get the trade to retail pie as well usually.
So I work for 6 hrs and get $400, ain't so bad.

[attilathehun]

  I may take you up on it. Would you do a tranny flush, coolant flush and oil change/filter as well, - and how much would you charge? using Audi recomended fluids and full synthetic oil?.

If I keep it, I may as well have peace of mind. I have close to 50 watchers on TM and all kinds of silly offers from people who  know nothing about these cars. Mostly I just tell them that I wont sell the car to them as they are looking for cheap transport and they should look elsewhere as they probably wont be able to afford the petrol this girl sucks.

The one guy told me he would like to have an AA inspection and would make an offer based on that, I'm tempted to increase the price everytime someone makes me a stupid offer, This is not a CHEAP car, I'm only selling it cheaply because I dont have much invested in it lol.

[BB]

Be over a grand with all that done. Probably around $1200.

[00quattro00]

IMO youd be doing allroght to get $4k for it, they are old and not exactly cheap to fix for the average person, and the last few s6's that have sold have gone for around $2-3k

[attilathehun]

Normally I would agree with you, but those are cars that have done over 200k and look like it. This one has done under 150k and looks like its done 60k--I dont need the money, so I would rather put it on blocks than give it away.   .

mmm- Anyone thought of taking off the body, welding up a roll cage and taking these offroad??

[user2154]

If your dropping the water, the rubber turbo return hose (under the intake manifold) goes a bit gooey over time.

[user2154]

Hairdressers drive Rav4's, that's what I heard. 

(Although I hear they are worth off-roading).

[attilathehun]

    SOLD. I have one of these   http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/tools-repair-kits/meters-testers/auction-398379418.htm for $100 and a N75 valve for a $50. The scanner comes with the additional cable you require for the Audi 100's. Scannner only used twice