DUBSTAR'S PROJECT - Wei? Hase - 1976 Golf LS

Started by dubstar, April 23, 2012, 04:57:43 PM

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GTI's

How old is the M/C?  I had one leaking in the diaphragm

dubstar

"I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying."

BB

Are the rear shoes adjusted right? you can get a bit of travel if not.
Hit the brakes without the motor going and see if you can hear the rear brakes squeak as they take up the slack.
Where the wedge drops down can get worn and they never adjust up properly.
The end is nigh, but the end of what is the question?

dubstar

 10points to Jem on this round of "what the bloody hell is wrong?"

The adjusters were not moving freely on the rear shors.  Eventually coaxed them further down through the bolt hole.

Does this mean a new set of springs, levers, adjusters when the pedal travel next gets too bad?
"I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying."

dubstar

A quick pic from DoVW. 

Finally got the brake issue sorted.  Turns out that the 'automatic' adjustment wedge was not automatically adjusting.  We forced the wedge down through a wheel stud hole and that solved the issue!

"I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying."

dubstar

My project on ANdy for the past few weeks has been to make new set of interior boot cards and also repair the parcel tray and its supports.

The boot area was in pretty bad shape as you can see here:



The parcel tray was broken and ripped and didn't stay in place, it just dropped off the supports:





I used some 4.2mm masonite to reconstruct the panels, using the old ones as a template.  With a lot of primer-sand-paint-repeat, I got the boards pretty smooth:





I also used the masonite to add some strength and repair the parcel tray:



The parcel tray supports were pretty bowed and also had some broken tabs/cracks.  I added strength and straightened them out by using some Auminium U bar.  This fits perfectly into the channel where the parcel tray rest and with some JB weld and concealed rivets (clamped for 3 days) I managed to get them straight and sturdy again.

Before:


During:





After:



The parcel tray on a Mk1 connect to the backseat.  It has an excess length of fabric that is screwed into the top of the back seat.  Over time the fabric rips and frays.  Obviously this was a known problem and on the later Mk1s, VW added a length of aluminium bar to fold the fabric more evenly.  This bar is NLA, so I had to choose a profile from stock and used that.  I also had to break out the needle and thread to repair the rips.:



And fully completed:





A few things I would do differently:

1) I'd look at using slightly thinner board (the originals are 2.5-3mm). 
2) I'd also look at getting ABS plastic sheet, I think that could work wuite well, but cost is the issue ($15 vs $140)
3) I hate trim clips, they are the s**ttest invention next to clam shell packaging (which is what mine came in!)
4) I need to clean my camera lens.




"I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying."

dubstar

Basically, I had to take the mk1 to work yesterday when we had the huge downpour in Melbourne (there's a longer story here, but lets stick to teh topic).

I got home and felt the carpet and it was a little damp, which I expected.  So I lifted up the carpet and underlay to let it dry out.  However, I found some rust that will need treating. 

I plan on doing the full POR15 3 step process (I know some people don't like it, but vert used it, so can't be all bad ;D).  What I would like to know is, what are people doing for sound deadening/underlay?  The OEM stuff is quite thick, but I think it would be best to throw in some new stuff.  Thoughts:

1) Use this stuff.  Two layers of sound absorbing underlay separated by a noise barrier of mass loaded vinyl:Sound Deadening Underlay Offcut Suits Replacement Moulded CAR Carpet Fitting | eBay

2) Use this stuff.  A layer of butyl bonded to traditional jute underfelt:  Soundproofing Felt - Knox Auto Carpets

3) Use Dynamat/Extrememat/etc and then std underlay on top.

I'm no a fan of number 3 as it seems counterintuitive to stick something to the floor of the car that could trap moisture and condensation.

On the good side is that most of the bitumen sealer crap is easily chipping off, most came off easily, but there are some further parts that will require a heat gun.  The rubber pads on the front wheel wells, to the right of the pedals, are going to be pain in the arse











There's no holes, which is good, but will take some work.
"I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying."

80 Vert

Por15 has it's uses and is very tough but I wouldn't use it to "paint over rust" per say, ideal on your floors but use the metal ready first and de rust it before top coating.
I used it on the inside of the Ghia roof but that was after sandblasting first and since the sunroof is a "wet" area its quite ideal for that.

Chip off the old stuff and treat the rust underneath it as well, even going over it with a wire wheel in a grinder before metal ready will give better results as well.

That first sound deadening material is great, I would use that!
I have used similar stuff from Forman Insulation before and works really well, quite heavy due to the bitumen in between but you'll only need relative small pieces.
2010 T5 Transporter TDI  Tuned by Superior Tuning NZ
2003 Jetta Coupe soon to be R36TT
1991 Golf GTI 2.0 TSI swapped
1963 Type 34 Karmann Ghia, turbo 2.0
1990 Porsche 964 911 Carrera 4
1980 1303 Beetle vert, under restoration

dubstar

Thanks John

I've used POR 15 before.  I always wire brush and then 3M-strip-disc the area to get rid of all visible rust, then follow the marine clean - Metal ready - POR procedure.  I would maybe consider epoxy primer, but if you miss even a small rust speck you are in trouble.
"I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying."

80 Vert

I'd agree, if you were to sandblast it I'd go 2 pack epoxy but since that isn't an option go the Por15 route.
2010 T5 Transporter TDI  Tuned by Superior Tuning NZ
2003 Jetta Coupe soon to be R36TT
1991 Golf GTI 2.0 TSI swapped
1963 Type 34 Karmann Ghia, turbo 2.0
1990 Porsche 964 911 Carrera 4
1980 1303 Beetle vert, under restoration

watercooled

Nice work so far ,well done,the Por15 is often applyed over heavy rust scale and thats not what it is designed for,don't put it on clean steel also because it won't bond to it also,many home restorers are now finding this out after a while.
I've used a sound deadening material that is for sale on TM,it is bitumen based product but has no odour,way cheaper than Dynamat,it profiles to the panels with a deadblow hammer and sticks real good.
1974 Porsche 914 with 2.2T 911 6cyl,
Audi a6 allroad 2007 3.0TDI stage 1 reflash ,
89 Corrado 2.0 16v, Stilauto RX 17in wheels,ABF on k/jet ,resto underway maybe up for sale ?,
2002 T4 transporter 2.5 TDI.

dubstar

Been cracking on with removing the rest of the bitumen and rubber from the firewall.  The best method is to keep the heat gun on the area and the use your chosen craper to peel it off.  The best scraper i found was the 'crevice type', as it conforms to most angles.

I'll go get some dry ice to do the rear floor, as I also want to try making sorbet Heston-style.







"I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying."

dubstar

Question for the day.

There are holes pressed into the footwell plate (circled in red).  Can anyone tell me if the cavity underneath has a drain?  Where does it drain to on the underside?

"I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying."

80 Vert

I don't believe so no, if there is it will be a little hole at the end of the rail.
Can't quite recall from the Scirocco.
2010 T5 Transporter TDI  Tuned by Superior Tuning NZ
2003 Jetta Coupe soon to be R36TT
1991 Golf GTI 2.0 TSI swapped
1963 Type 34 Karmann Ghia, turbo 2.0
1990 Porsche 964 911 Carrera 4
1980 1303 Beetle vert, under restoration

dubstar

#114
Been a while since I updated.

I have POR 15'ed the floor now.  I actually found a spot that needed a weld, so cut it out and got it welded.  Then I followed the POR guidelines:

1. Scrub with Marine Clean and rinse well.

2. Wire brush everything and then scour the surface with green 3m pads to 'key' the surface.

3. Marine Clean, scrub and rinse again.  Then dry everything with a heat gun.

4. Soak in Metal Ready for a minimum of 30 minutes. Rinse and then dry really well with a heat gun.

5. 2 coats of por 15.

It looks good and solid, ready for putting back together







I wish the budget would allow for some better seats, but I'll just put the originals in for the meantime.  I'll have to keep my eye out for that elusive 'free to a good home' GTI interior....
"I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying."

dubstar

Finally all wrapped up and back together.

I ended up cutting out the manky parts of the foam underlay and cutting replacement parts from the new vinyl/foam underlay I bought.  I also found that the factory misses a few areas where I added extra underlay.  I also put aluminium tape over the holes that were taped up by the factory



Seam sealed the portholes in







And my little helper







"I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying."

BB

Nice work, but have you sealed where it was leaking in? Usually around the windscreen and it drips all over the fuse box. I would have the screen removed and clean up any rust and then have it refitted with a good window rubber sealer, which can be even just some candle wax or a lube stick tho there may be better products?
The end is nigh, but the end of what is the question?

spooln

77 CS1 Fiat Spider. 78 Mk1 Scirocco. 83 Mk1 GTI. 12 Abarth 595C Competizione. 18 Golf R. 20 Kodiaq vRS

dubstar

The interior looks clean, but theres lots of rips and tears on the seats and little holes in the door trim.

I haven't pulled the windscreen yet.  I will, but for the time being it is a dry weather car.
"I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying."

BB

They are easy to pull out and refit. Just spray lube around the rubbers etc as you push it out if you break it buy a new one a new screen is so nice on an old car and only about 280 here, not sure there? And then just rub a lube stick or two all around it if its good, scrub up the rubber and don't forget some lube on the glass side and refit with sash cord rope. easy and the dripping on the fuse box is a real pain. But yea Im sure you will when you feel like it.
The end is nigh, but the end of what is the question?