DUBSTAR'S PROJECT - Wei? Hase - 1976 Golf LS

Started by dubstar, April 23, 2012, 04:57:43 PM

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dubstar

Just repaired another little issue.  The speedo was working, but the odometer had stopped.  Pulled the cluster apart and repaired the cracked gear with 2 tiny circlips and jb weld.  Google the vortex for the full DIY.

When I put it back together I had a part leftover.

The inter web says its a 'dash support' but I can't see where it goes?  Any help?

Pics




"I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying."

dubstar

This week I have been doing two things to Andy

1. Getting all the parts ready for the 5 speed conversion.  I have purchased a linkage kit, 90mm drive flanges and a few other bits and pieces needed to upgrade.  I am just cleaning up the box now, I was thing about painting it, but the aluminium has come up looking fresh and clean after a little kerosene and toothbrush action, so that will be all that is needed.

2. The odometer stopped working randomly a little while ago so I pulled the cluster and set about repairing the issue.  Here is a write up with photos to help others and also for my own reference:
Once you have the gauge cluster removed from the dash (refer to Haynes or Bentley) this is what you are left with:



Set yourself up on a nice flat surface, you will need Philips and flat screwdrivers of various sizes as well as a set of sliding jaw pliers and some little picks/tweezers.
Undo the 6 screws circled below:



You need to remove 4 bulb holders to free the printed circuit board (bulbs shown in next 2 pictures).  This will allow you to remove the tach and speedo from the cluster housing.





Now you need to remove the speedo from the tach.  This requires the removal of the 2 screws highlighted below:



Now you should have the speedometer free from everything else.  Be VERY careful not drop it or lose any screws, etc?..

This is what you should have in front of you now:



Remove the needle by sliding the tweezers/picks under the base of the needle and pulling up gently.  It will come free with some persuasion.  The needle will fall apart into 3 pieces, like such:



Now undo the 2 screws on the gauge face, make sure you don?t scratch it!!



You now have access to the inner workings of the odometer and speedo.
To allow you to access the gears and tumblers, remove these 3 screws CAREFULLY.  A white gear will drop out and you will also have to be careful of the speedometer flywheel thingee.





The way the odometer works is that the little white gear on the end (covered in grey snot in this photo) turns the shaft which turns the big metal tumbler.  This in turn drives the odometer through a series of small gears and black numbered tumblers, as well as driving the trip meter via the tiny white gear.
The common issue is that the white gear on the end (the one with the grey snot) cracks and spins freely on the shaft.  I also found that the big metal tumbler was spinning free on the shaft, thus nothing was happening when the speedo drive turned.
To fix the small white gear you need to start by levering the gear off the shaft.  I used a small screwdriver and it came off quite easily.  I used 2 tiny star washers that I pressed  over the sides of the white gear and then covered them in JB Weld and let it dry. 
To fix the metal tumbler I slide the shaft out just enough so the tumbler dropped out.  Don?t remove it completely otherwise the black numbered tumblers will fall out!!  I added a smidge of JB Weld to the centre of the metal tumbler and then slide the shaft back through.  Make sure no JB Weld is on any of the other components, otherwise the whole thing won?t work.
Once the white gear is dry and the metal tumbler is dry (i.e. it won?t spin freely on the shaft) you can start reassembly.  I used the sliding jaw pliers to press the white gear back on the shaft with a little JB Weld to keep it locked on.
Everything else is just the reverse of dismantling.  I would take the time to install some T5 LED bulbs in the cluster so you never have to pull it apart again to change the incandescents.
Further pics for detail





Sorry for the wordy post, hopefully someone finds it useful.

"I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying."

dubstar

After a year and a half of driving on a 4 speed box, I decided to upgrade to a 5 speed.  The box I have is an AMC with ratios 3.45, 1.94, 1.28, 0.97, 0.80, 3.67 (1,2,3,4,5,Final).  I believe it came off a Mk3, but may also be found on SEATs.  The big difference about this box is that it has a 24mm input shaft, instead of the ?standard? 22mm input shaft.
There?s a few things that are needed for a 5 speed conversion:
1)   5speed gearbox mount.  This is the mount that bolts to the left hand chassis rail.  I received a genuine one with the box.



2)   5 speed linkage.  You can either find the full 5 speed linkage from a mk1 (cabby would be the most abundant in Aus) or you can buy an adjustable set-up and 4 speed extension from MissingLinkz.  You can see the setup all bolted in to my car here:





3)   100mm drive flanges.  I want to retain the 90mm driveshafts and uprights that I have, so I switched the 100mm flanges in the AMC box for brand new 90mm flanges from GAP.  Note: your old 4 speed flanges will not fit.



4)   Clutch.  I am using the full 24mm clutch setup (flywheel, pressure plate, disc) that came with the box.  There are lots of options to mix and match.

5)   Speedo drive.  You will need to match the speedo drive to the final drive ratio of the gearbox.  Mine is a 3.67 final drive which means a ?red? speedo gear is needed.

One thing that wasn?t an issue was the reverse switch.  Some boxes have a bigger threaded switch, however, the AMC has the same thread as the old 4 speed, so I could just use the 4 speed switch.



I?m using all new gearbox mounts and also the OEM style dampening rings that Mk1autohaus sell.  I?ve spent a bit of time scrubbing my nuts (and bolts and hardware) with kero and a toothbrush so that everything is nice and clean.

At the moment it is now ready for the box to be lifted into place, just need some quiet time when I don?t have my 18-month old ?helper? around.
"I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying."

dubstar

Been a while since my last update.

At the beginning of the month I completed an 8 week panel restoration course at the local polytech.  My goal was to pick up a couple of tips for repairing panels and maybe actually repair a couple of parts on my car.  It turned out that another vw watercooler had the same idea.

Anyway, after a few weeks of the basics, like beating out a hubcap, oxy and mig welding, we got to start bringing our own panels in.......

First up was my bonnet which had two little holes by the washer jet.  After making the hole bigger myself, the instructor took over and welded them up.  Ground down and painted, it looks spot on. No photos as it was done in a single session

Next was a part I had been dreading.  Just on the boot lip there were 2 sections that were like Swiss cheese.  I was allowed to bring my car into the class.  We cut out the sections, folded up new metal and then it was welded in.  I've just finished grinding it and painting it.  Pretty pleased with how it came out

Old metal:





And finished:







"I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying."

sifty


dubstar

Wow, it's been a while......just finished a house renovation, so can finally get back to the car. 

There's two jobs I've been saving up parts for.  The first is an interior update.

I bought a TMI seat upholstery kit earlier this year.  I've started fitting the covers over the past week.

I finished the rear bench and the backs of the front seats.  Unfortunately, the lower front seat is wrong, so I've had to order the correct one which will take 2 weeks to arrive.

Photos:









Some progress shots:





"I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying."

dubstar

Also updated the boot panels with abs sheet.  If you want a set I have some of the sheet left.

"I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying."

dubstar

"I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying."

dave


dubstar

No, not too hard, just take your time

Finished off the front seats.  Pretty happy with how they turned out.  I need a couple of little pieces to finish them off, if anyone can help.





I need the passenger side fold forward handle. Like this:



And I also need one of the special little circlips,  like this

"I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying."

rambo_005


M M

Bought not built.

GolfJon

Quote from: dubstar on September 28, 2015, 10:20:30 PM
No, not too hard, just take your time

Finished off the front seats.  Pretty happy with how they turned out.  I need a couple of little pieces to finish them off, if anyone can help.





I need the passenger side fold forward handle. Like this:



And I also need one of the special little circlips,  like this



Pretty sure I have the circlip thingys somewhere, from a Mk2 seat but am sure they are the same. I'll have a look for it tonight.
Mk2 Golf CLi Auto-. Manual 020 conversion...done but still in bits...
2005 VW Lt35 campervan-high emissions diesel!
Wife's car '71 1302s Super Beetle
'08 Mk5 wagon 2.0 Tsi

black16v

I've got two old MK2 front seats here (ex Golfjon) with those clips, you're welcome to them (or the seats) , sorry no handles.
1988 MK II GTI 16V

dubstar

Final interior shot with new door cards, etc







"I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying."

dubstar

With the arrival of son number 2 (Hamish), progress has been slow.

I have upgraded to a Weber 32/36 which had made the car a lot more lively



I also made a bracket to attach the fire extinguisher.  I didn't want to drill holes in the floor so came up with this:





Finally........I picked up a 2L 8v.  It is an AGG with a nicely worked Mk2 40mm valve head.  I will be working this one up slowly, along with a close ratio ACD gear box I sourced.  Final goal is to fit the bargain DHLA45s I scored.







"I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying."

M M

Bought not built.

RS ZWEI

1980 VW Golf GTI Track Car
1995 Audi RS2
2003 Mini Cooper S (Written off - rear ended)
2005 Mini Cooper S
2006 Skoda Octavia vRS Combi
2009 Renault Megane 230 R26 (Written off - rear ended)
2013 Renault Megane RS265 Redbull RB8

spooln

77 CS1 Fiat Spider. 78 Mk1 Scirocco. 83 Mk1 GTI. 12 Abarth 595C Competizione. 18 Golf R. 20 Kodiaq vRS

dubstar

There's a company up the road, 'Scorcher,' who modify vac advance dizzies into pure mechanical advance dizzies.  They re-curve them to match your engine.

I was thinking about programmable ignition, but need to consider that a bit more before investing
"I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying."