DUBSTAR'S PROJECT - Wei? Hase - 1976 Golf LS

[dubstar]

I've been doing a little bit on ANdy over the past week or so. 

The dash that came with the car was completely fcuked.  I managed to get a mint, plastic dash from Lane and so set about fitting it.....

I didn't really find any full instructions on removing an early mk1 dash, lots on removing the instrument cluster, so heres a quick help guide:

1) remove instrument cluster and steering wheel as per Haynes/Bentley.

2) remove the 2 screws at each end underneath the dash (4 screws in total)

3) remove the 3 screws from the centre console and slide the console out of the way (no need to remove the whole thing)

4) This gives you acess to the centre screw that is holding the 2 sections of the heater together.  Remove this screw.

6) Remove any wire clips/ties that may be holding the loom to the dash

5) Now just give the dash a damn good tug backwards and it should come free.

Location of 5 screws and picture of fcuked dash



When I installed the new dash I also took the opportunity to update the stereo.  I wanted something with a slight retroi feel to it, so I went with the Retrosound Model One "Becker" style unit.  Pictures....








The only problem is that there is only 1 4x6 speaker in the centre of the dash and I don't want to hack up the car to fit any others.  I found a simple wiring diagram (see below) that apparently can convert stereo into mono, however I have found that it distorts the sound and also really limits the volume.  Can any of the electronics experts here tell me another way to get around this?

If I read the schematic correctly, I put resistors on all 4 wires (R+, R-, L+, L-) and then 1 big one between them.  I have used std type resistors rated at 1W.

Schematic:


My wiring:

[Trofeo]

There's a simpler version on this page. http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/634214-mono-stereo-passively-help-sought.html

Your one shows what looks like coils on the inputs?

[BB]

Just chuck one speaker in the middle place and then put the other one hidden under the dash a bit and she will sound fine.
That's what I dun anyway.
Then get some other speakers and make little pods that slide under your front seats and you get 4 sensible sized speakers going unseen.

[dubstar]

At the moment I just have it connected to one speaker output (Rear Left) until I can work out a good system.

I don't want to just stash speakers around the car.  I'd like to keep it all looking original if possible

[BB]

Well can you see a speaker hidden under a dash or under a seat? No and your not cutting into anything.
Having one speaker in the dash would never do it for me.

[dubstar]

I haven't had much time to do anything recently, but managed to fit in a few hours to correct the brake light set-up that was in Andy when I got him.

The set-up looked like this:








However, what is really funny, is that the wires were connected in such a way that this switch did nothing!  The car was running off the original hydraulic brake light switches that are connected at the master cylinder.  I guess someone put it tiogether, figured the brake lights still worked and left it at that?!?!?

Anyway, I plan on running a later master cylinder without the hydraulic switches and, since I went ahead and purchased a replacement brake light switch anyway, I thought I might as well correct the issue now.

I actually found a motorbike universal brake light switch that would work much better in the Mk1.  Here's a pic:





You can buy them from ebay here.  It is made by K&S and has a part number 12-0001

The Mk1 pedal cluster is set up perfectly for this switch.  All you need to do is drill a 10/12mm hole (mine was already there for the previous switch), bend the activating wire so that it can loop through the existing hole in the pedal and Roberts your Mothers Brother.







Now on to the wiring. 

Whoever set up the previous switch had connected one wire to ground and one wire to the red/yellow in the pic below.  This doesn't work (at least on my car).  For the switch to work it needs to switch between the red/yellow and pink/black wire.  I believe the blue/brown wire is part of the low pressure warning system. 



For the moment I have the hydraulic switch hooked up and the pedal switch running as a parallel 'back-up'.

And here's the 'engineering' of the old switch.....

[BB]

You appear to have the usual mk1 accelerator hook just hooked through the pedal hole with no rubber bung left.
For some insane reason they had a large hole in the pedal a rubber grommet and that hook on the cable.
The grommet breaks up and disappears and the hook just ends up hooking vicariously through the hole, until one day when you go to pull in front of a bus and then go oh no and lift off quick and then think oh crap I have to go now and stomp again only to find the hook falls out.
Not good.
I cut a bung out of rubber and then also got a large electrical chocolate connector and screwed it over the end of the hook so it can't fall out the hole. 

[dubstar]

Thanks Jem, I'll get onto that.  It is very loose feeling so it was on the list.

[00quattro00]

I had it happen to me in one of my mk1s and in the old audis, luckily had enough speed to roll across the intersection

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2

[dubstar]

Getting ready for the next big upgrade.....

I'll be replacing the brakes with the following set-up:

1) Front girling 54 calipers, rebuilt with ss hoses and Greenstuff pads.
2) Rear 200mm drums from a mk3.
3) mk3 9" booster and 22mm master cylinder

I'll also be adding the front cross brace John made, GTI swaybars, poly bushes and new balljoints, etc.

Some pics for clicks

Calipers and swaybars:



Rear drums:



I also ground down the old bearing races so that I can use them to press in the new bearings

[dubstar]

Started the big brake and suspension refresh.

Here's the majority of parts to go in.





Front:
- girling 54 calipers, rebuilt
- early Audi caliper carriers.  These allow 256mm brakes to bolt straight on.
- DBA slotted rotors
- EBC Greenstuff pads
- Goodridge hoses
- prothane and Superpro bushes (pain in th arse to buy all the different swaybar bushes)
- new control arms and ball joints
- x-brace from vert.
- 17mm swaybar

Rear
- 200mm Mk3 drums with new cylinders
- Prothane bushes
- Goodridge hoses
- 20mm swaybar

Brake booster
- 22mm m/cyl
- 9inch booster

Wheels will be a surprise...nothing too exciting.

Over the past few days I have done the front suspension and brakes.  Brakes all installed.  Shiny new suspnsion parts.  All bushes lubed up, 'cause noone likes squeaky bush.









And I've also removed the booster....

[dubstar]

I got the booster and master cylinder all sorted.  It's amazing how much you can get done if you don't watch TV for a few days.

I modified a mk3 booster to work as per this link:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/f20/how-mod-late-booster-mk1-11689.html









The lines have been bent a bit by some previous owner, they now clear everything, but when the engine swap happens i'll bend up some new ones.

[spooln]

What engine re you planning?

[dubstar]

Got Andy back on his wheels on the weekend.

I forgot to snap some pics of the rear beam before I re-installed it, but here's a few fuzzy/dark photos....

Prothane bushes



20mm sway bar





200mm drums



Front strut bar



Sneaky pic of the wheels

[BB]

If you run low get the ball joint extenders.

[dubstar]

Hey Jem, you've been quiet recently.

I thought about balljoint extenders, but my car runs the really early 15mm balljoints and no-one makes 15mm extenders.

[00quattro00]

Looks good, ill be doing the same for my mk1, swapping out the brakes on my mk3 for vr6 so the mk3 drums can go on the mk1

[watercooled]

What engine re you planning?

Wanted to ask this myself,so far the car is overbraked,there must be a bigger motor on the way,reckon 3a or 2e would be the nuts.

[watercooled]

No answer ,? hope theres no offence taken by my reply but have done full mk3 brake conversion on 87 mk2 3a 2 litre block and dijifant head and well speced motor (plenty of power),never changed the master cylinder as stock is fine,I have powerful brakes.
Nice to see this car very tidy and good luck with the project.

[dubstar]

Sorry for the delay in response.  I've been working on resolving an exhaust/subframe interference issue.

When I fitted the front X brace to the underneath, it was clear that the old standard convoluted flex joint/section was going to rest on the frame.  I decided that I would upgrade the entire system (downpipe back) in preparation for future developments.  I found a guy who was recommended by a bunch of people and dropped the car off with the clear direction to get rid of the interference in the front and also allow a bit more room at the back, where, on occasions, the tailpipe hit the bodywork.

I picked up the car and found that he had done the tailpipe, but he swore black and blue he couldn't clear the front brace and that I would be better modifying the brace.

I went home and jacked the car up to take took some measurements and found he had replaced the system from about halfway along the transmission tunnel, leaving the front flex section.  To me it was really clear that he could simply install one of those 100mm long woven flex joints just after the front flange and this would be well away from the X brace.

So a quick call and he admitted that what I suggested was possible, but it was going to cost extra for the joint......anyway, I now have a full 2" downpipe-back system with clearancce where needed.  He also replaced the flanges for easier to access ones, so I can change/adapt future changes easier.

The car sounds a lot less 'tinny' and is actually quieter than before.

Pics to follow....

I'm also having issues with bleeding my brakes.  The symptoms:

1) When car is off, it takes 2 pumps and the pedal goes hard.
2) When the car is on.  The pedal has quite a bit of travel before it bites.
3) Once the pedal bites, the brakes are fantastic.

To me this points to air still in the system.  I am using a pressure bleeder and have gone through about 1.5L of fluid.  I am going to get Emelyn to give me a hand and try bleeding the old fashioned way.  If that doesn't work then it is off to the mechanics and they can try bleeding.  Any other thoughts?

Finally, engine plans......I would love an ABF, but at the moment cost is kind of prohibitive.  I priced up getting one from NZ and the freight is about $6-800 all up.  So I will probably go down the tried and tested 2L 8v route, which was pretty good in the mk2.