Build thread - Rob's Audi UR Quattro

Started by RobClubley, July 22, 2015, 08:39:41 AM

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Audi do

Quote from: RobClubley on June 12, 2017, 09:37:06 AM
Old-school using the wife to pump pedal and a tube/bottle.

Tried firing it up again with a full battery, it turns over but won't fire. Going to get some more fuel in there as it's pretty much empty in that cavernous tank.
Along with the resulting cost of the fuel to fill that cavernous tank.

RobClubley

Quote from: Audi do on June 12, 2017, 10:24:10 AM
Along with the resulting cost of the fuel to fill that cavernous tank.

Really looking forward to that first fill - 80l of 98RON.
1985 ur quattro
1992 Ford Courier - the sensible daily

Worms

Quote from: RobClubley on June 12, 2017, 10:29:21 AM
Really looking forward to that first fill - 80l of 98RON.

And hopefully the second one... later that same day  ;)

RobClubley

1985 ur quattro
1992 Ford Courier - the sensible daily


snowtyres

Do you have this Rob?
(From the late PP)

Ps...I think you will need 90 litres to fill the tank, not 80!!


Bleeding the brakes on an Audi ur-quattro

Procedure:

Use DoT 4 specification brake fluid.
Before starting any work, ensure that all brake bleed nipples can be moved.
If at all possible, use proper flare nut spanners on each bleed nipple.
11mm on master cylinder - occasionally 10mm.
9mm on brake proportioning valve (below master cylinder) - flare nut socket useful as space is limited
11mm on each caliper - sometimes 7mm.
Optionally remove the brake light bulbs from the rear light clusters - the current drain is considerable
Depress the brake pedal at least twenty times or until the pedal goes hard. Optionally check that the low hydraulic pressure warning switch (WR - below accumulator, MB/RR - diagonally mounted on brake servo) has closed
Remove cap on brake fluid reservoir. Optionally check that the brake fluid level warning switch in the cap closes - this is now a common failure point and a safety issue. The brake fluid reservoir should NOT be topped up during normal service - the falling level is a good indicator of pad wear and the level alarm will trigger before the pads are completely worn.
If changing fluid completely (every two years) drain brake fluid from reservoir using a syphon (brake fluid is poisonous) or a MityVac pump, open caliper bleed nipples in turn and pump fluid out with brake pedal.
Attach a pressure system such as a VAG 1238/1 or Gunson Eezibleed (2 to 2.5 bar) to the master cylinder reservoir - Note 1
Use either the pedal depressor shipped with the 1238/1 or a broom braced against the driver's headrest to hold the brake pedal depressed.
Bleed the system in the following order:
Master cylinder.
Proportioning valve (check for leaks on the front of the valve).
Rear right caliper.
Rear left caliper.
Front right caliper.
Front left caliper.
At least 500ml of brake fluid must pass down each line.
9mm and 11mm spanners or specialist brake spanners (e.g., Williams Superslim) are required. Recently shipped (2007) calipers sometimes have 7mm bleed nipples. Access to the 9mm bleed nipple on the proportioning valve is restricted. For the Coupe quattro, an 11mm Crowfoot socket is optimal.

Note 1: The technique described above uses a pressure bleeder as documented in Audi's repair guidelines. This not the only and perhaps not even the best way to do it - Audi's aim was to make it a one-man operation to save service costs. However, it is perfectly possible to bleed quattro brakes the conventional way by depressing the pedal with the relevant bleed nipple open, closing the bleed nipple, releasing the brakes and repeating the procedure. This obviously requires an assistant operating either the brake pedal or the bleed nipple.

It's possible to make up a device to save the need for repeated opening and closing of the bleed nipple:

Obtain a 30cm length of thick-walled hose to fit tightly over the bleed nipple
With a very sharp instrument such as a razor blade or scalpel, cut a slit along the length of the tube about 1cm long ending about 1cm from one end of the tube
Block that end of the tube with a screw or bolt
Place the blocked end in a suitable receptacle such as a jam jar
Attach the other end of the tube to the bleed nipple
Open the bleed nipple and pump the brakes slowly, keeping an eye on the brake fluid reservoir level. The slit acts as a one-way valve - when brake fluid is forced down the tube the slit opens to allow it into the jar; when the pressure is released the slit closes and no fluid or air can get back into the system. When sufficient fluid has been forced through (Audi recommend 500ml per caliper) close the bleed nipple.

Kerbside Motors Home Page and Contact Information

RobClubley

Yes I've been following that guide. Also have been trying to work out how to bleed the clutch as the bleed nipple is on top of the gearbox just behind the steering rack and is a bugger to get to.
1985 ur quattro
1992 Ford Courier - the sensible daily

RobClubley

1985 ur quattro
1992 Ford Courier - the sensible daily

brian

Škoda Fabia 1.0 TSI Race Blue

black16v

#1029
s**t Rob, I hope the oil pressure was good in the 'ol girl. But seriously, congratulations you're doing a great job. I take my hat off to you.
1988 MK II GTI 16V

RobClubley

Bit of a frustrating afternoon working on the car today. I realised I can't get the front left wheel to turn so investigated that and found that the brake caliper is stuck on. I thought it was all okay but it looks like I'm going to have to remove it and re-check it.

I removed the bonnet locking pins to clean them up and paint them as they're rusty and have been bothering me.



Then I noticed the power steering fluid all over the place. Bugger. It's slowly weeping from the banjo bolt I removed to drain it when I fixed the anti-vibration mounts on the pressure accumulator thingy. Hardly any has made it to the floor, it's all sitting on various brackets and surfaces in the engine. Need to get some new washers I think, drain it again, clean it and re-seal.

Then I decided to look at the passenger side window. I never did get it closing properly. After some investigation I've declared the aftermarket regulator I bought to be useless.
So I need to either source an OEM regulator (rare as unicorn poo) or try and make one good one from the new motor and original vertical bit.
1985 ur quattro
1992 Ford Courier - the sensible daily

RobClubley

Humphrey labradoodle found something outside the back door.
I'm very excited. He's not so sure.


Just the tip...






1985 ur quattro
1992 Ford Courier - the sensible daily

RobClubley

Brake caliper off again because it's not retracting. I suspect it may be toast. Hope not but lumps of rusty stuff came out with the fluid. And I'm struggling to get the pistons out.



The red in the tray is ATF from my leaky power steering.

Started fitting the exhaust.






At this point I declared lunchtime...


After lunch I realised I needed to fit it from back to front to get it seated properly in its new mounts - which entailed drilling holes in my boot floor. So off it all came to be re-fitted.














New bolts in boot
1985 ur quattro
1992 Ford Courier - the sensible daily

RobClubley

1985 ur quattro
1992 Ford Courier - the sensible daily

Trofeo

Not a fan of how milltek have their joiner clamp bolt located below the pipe. Driveway ground mine down over the years!

Black tips look great btw.
2015 Amarok 4WD auto
2018 Golf R-Line Tsi

HaNs

Quote from: Trofeo on June 25, 2017, 07:05:16 AM
Not a fan of how milltek have their joiner clamp bolt located below the pipe. Driveway ground mine down over the years!

Black tips look great btw.

Clamps can be twisted so the bolt is tucked away

RobClubley

Quote from: HaNs on June 25, 2017, 07:45:27 AM
Clamps can be twisted so the bolt is tucked away

Yeah I'll do that, good idea.
1985 ur quattro
1992 Ford Courier - the sensible daily

Horch

Appears Milltek have changed the quattro pattern as the system I have uses the original exhaust mount brackets to secure the muffler. Certainly no drilling of the boot floor required. Also the twin tail pipes are welded in place.  Probably production efficiency and made to be more universal across more model applications.
2018 Porsche 991 Carrera T Manual
1988 urquattro MB
1986 MB 300SL
1956 DKW RT250
2006 Vespa PX200

RobClubley

Yeah this is their revised "Milltek Classic" system. And you're probably right about the tips.
1985 ur quattro
1992 Ford Courier - the sensible daily

RobClubley

A new window regulator arrived. Works perfectly. But it's for the wrong side. Bugger.



I took the digital dash apart a bit to find that voltage regulator that I'm told might be the cause of the flickering. Yeah that's beyond my soldering skills. Need to find someone who can help with it.







Also Takas (slowburn) popped around with a G60 caliper for the passenger side. Hero. Got it cleaned up and painted and ready to fit tomorrow.

Then if that's all good I can get the car back on its wheels.
1985 ur quattro
1992 Ford Courier - the sensible daily