Passat V5 --- advice please

[Pristle]

Today I discovered how expensive it is when a timing chain gives way. After an initial (and grudgingly acceptable) quote of around 2k for a chain replacement, tests indicate no compression in pot 1 and low in pot 2. Meaning the original notion of "just a stretched timing chain" has now ballooned to around $3.5k for a replacement motor including fitting, sundries etc.

Qualitat had outright suggested a complete rebuild with a price tag north of $4.5k. The shop where it's at are saying north of 6.

Do I a.) try source another 5-pot for less, b.) part the car out? Another brainfart suggests c.) repower with a seemingly more commonly available V6 (assuming it would plug into existing trans). I'd expect an ECU transplant would then be required.

Thoughts? It's an expense I really didn't want to think about this side of Xmas so am trying to share the load.

[deedub]

Is it a manual?
Depends how attached you are to the car and its general condition I think, but mk4 shape cars (especially automatics) can be had in decent condition for not much more than your quote.
Unless you are doing the conversion yourself, I think a V6 conversion will go well over the quoted 3.5k for a replacement V5 motor.

[Pristle]

The saga continues.

After much hand wringing and weighing up the pros and cons, I decided I'd move ahead with a repair.

I sourced a ±100k motor from SD European in Hamilton for considerably less than had been quoted by the shop or Euroline. All options would have required renewal of water pump and thermostat for any kind of warranty. These were parts that were previously missed in job quote. I sourced these locally for much less than expected. (N.B. - The engine price quoted by Euroline and Mac's included these and were not itemised. I paid $1250+GST vs. their price of $1850+GST.)

I then got a call last Friday of 2018, disappointingly not to say the job was done, but saying I need new engine mounts ±$570+.  I said I'd find some, took my hunt on line and bought them on Saturday night for $118 including shipping, were waved through customs and no NZ side charges. They arrived Thursday morning. Colour me impressed. (N.B.- The engine mounts were an incidental, previously the snub mount had disintegrated to the point of non-existence, requiring east-west mounts to pick up the slack and were likely damaged then. The shop did me a courtesy.)

Hopefully Monday I will finally get my car back.

[Pristle]

An update:

Finally picked up the car from the shop yesterday. Yes, it's taken them a month for an engine swap.

First issue I picked up on was that it was intermittently very, very hard to brake. As in no vacuum assist. The other thing was that she doesn't sound the same. I put this down to the fact that I've been driving various other cars. This morning I've confirmed an exhaust leak (which may also explain the lambda sensor warning in VCDS). By the time I'd got back to the shop (through afternoon traffic), only the boss was left and he was locking up. I told him I'd be in touch.

Next problem was that she wouldn't start after I stopped to put gas in. While waiting for a jump, I managed to crank her over and got going. I now know why they left her running at the shop instead of letting me start her.

At the traffic lights, with the tranny in drive, I found I was having to keep my foot firmly planted to brake to prevent the car creeping forward. In neutral, the idle rises and falls, fluctuating between around 900 and 1200rpm. My VCDS logs show that idle has never been anything but 680rpm.

A generic coolant has been used. Likewise a semi-synthetic oil was used. This despite me having supplied G12 and a VW certified Penrite oil. Why? because the 'techs' failed to transfer the near new oil cooler from old motor to the substitute motor as requested. The sub motor having a leaky oil cooler. They managed to get water and oil mixed.

To add insult to injury, the cover/tray for the 'water box' between engine bay and windscreen has been damaged. I'm assuming when the battery terminal were loosened.


Am I p!55ed off? Royally. In my agitated and impatient state to get the car out of there, I paid before even taking her for a test run. Honestly though, I'm not sure I want them remedying the avoidable cock-ups.


Caveat emptor as they say. The shop came highly recommended by some friends and family members who have had various levels of work done. A key point was that they stood by their quotes and didn't pop surprises on people.

Adam, the service manager when the car went there, seemed to know what was what. As did the owner. Both had come out of Continental Cars service centres. Sadly for whatever reason, Adam is no longer there and I think "Mac's Auto Clinic" in Manurewa are paying the price.

[Pristle]

Not much to update at this point, other than I don't have my car. Car went back to the 'shop' on Wednesday for a variety of issues. Some of which were potentially catastrophic.

It may still end up being a legal wrangle. So will detail it later. In the meantime I have a 1.2l Suzuki Swift with a CVT to run around in.

[John Stone]

Wow....
Thats a painful odyssey.....

[Pristle]

This is one the one issue that sent a cold shiver down my spine. Not the boot that is freshly split, but the highlighted non original bolt that spins and slides freely.

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AqVfu6znekMEiAziE9NsiImZernB

[wilco]

That's almost criminal!

[Pristle]

Agreed. Still don't understand why the tierods were unshackled for an engine transplant. Can't find any workshop guide that includes that step.

[Pristle]

Had the car back since Saturday. Am preparing a report for the AA, as the shop is and alleged "Approved Repairer" and NZTA as they're certified to issue WOFs too.

I will share some of that on a public blog soon.

[00quattro00]

Do you still have the old engine? Was it a 10 or 20v?

[Pristle]

Sorry no. I told them to scrap it. It was the 20v AZX.