1989 Coupe Quattro B3 - Project car

[JLTemp]

Hey guys,

Thought I would share my project of bringing this coupe back to its former glory.
It is a

1989 Quattro Coupe B3
2.2L KV engine

I purchased this from a bloke in Christchurch last year in may.
First registered in NZ on the 15 / 1 / 1990 sold to a J. Rudd in Auckland. I am owner number 18.
Someone on here may know more about this car or even owned it haha.

This is how it looked when I got it. Had been in a fender bender at some point in its life so the bumpers have seen better days. Looking at all the WOF sheets it may have happened in 2013 as theres a heap of problems for fixing headlight/fog light alignment and tail lights.

[JLTemp]

So the first thing I did after getting it home was to repair the bumpers.
I have no background in this so I watched some youtube and googled somethings and figured it cant be that hard to get it looking OK until i can get it all done properly down the line.

Had to learn to plastic weld. Boy was the bumper a mess. A lot of cracks / breaks



Starting to fill and sand



First coat of primer and a test fit as I had to remake the mounting points behind the bumper. Forgot to take some pictures of that.



More sanding

[JLTemp]

The front was only damaged on one corner but it was in all the holes for the fog lights and indicators which made things a little tricky



I had to remake one corner of the wheel arch as it had been snapped off and lost.
I just used some PP pipe and heated/molded to somewhat of a close shape then ground it to finsh



And heres how the exterior looks today. Came out not too shabby for some colour matched paint out of a spray can.
I water blasted the lower section of the car to remove most of the silver paint that had been done to the car so it could be re done in black.

[JLTemp]

Was having trouble getting the rear diff lock to engage. The button would stick and not engage properly and the light would come on and off.
I checked on the diff to see if the actuator was damaged but all seemed good so I pulled the switch.

After a lot of sweating and swearing I managed to remove the handbrake surround without breaking it and popped the switch out.

Thinking it had a drink spilled on it at some stage cause it was a sticky mess. and the plug terminals had corroded a little.







Got to work cleaning that out and voilŕ it worked.

[JLTemp]

The interior isn't too bad. Has the typical tired seats and faded fabric.
Along the way the auxiliary gauges had been moved into the center console dash vents and a fire extinguisher installed in its place.



After sourcing a replacement stowage box with no holes and in blue (damn this took a while) everything was put back in its right place.







While I had the console apart and out the shifter needed replacing because it was wrecked so that was replaced with a new short shift.

[brian]

Nice work.
The bumpers have turned out very well. Amazing what a bit of graft can achieve.

[89 Coupe]

Nice car mate, what a beaut!

[JLTemp]

Thanks guys. The bumpers are by no means perfect but they're good enough a blind man would be proud haha.

As far as the mechanical side goes I haven't done a whole lot as of yet.
Gave it a much needed cam belt change as the old one was super loose. Replaced all the usuals while we were in there water pump ect.
Only snapped one picture on this one



I also decided to have the K-Jet unit and WUR sent off to aus to be recondition at K-Jet specialists.



The intake pipe had been crudely sealed on to the metering head



So that was pulled along with the fuel distributor and was cleaned up while the FD was away being reconditioned.



I was told that nothing was wrong with the unit just the orings and diaphragms ect were a bit tired so it was fully reconditioned and set back to factory specs



Same goes with the WUR



They did a bloody good job on this and the metering head required a little adjustment to get the engine to run right.
Its close at the moment but there's still a few more things that need doing to get it running mint.

[brian]

'Tired' plastic can take on a whole new lease of life if you reinforce the back with a layer of fibreglass.
I once repaired a badly cracked molded dash like that; layer of fibreglass on the back, recut the holes, reinstalled everything, looked perfect and far more rigid than originally.

[rambo_005]

Nice work!

There can't be many of these left around these days, so it's worth putting a little bit of effort into keeping it going and looking good.

[Audi do]

Good job.
I am looking at retaining the Kjet on mine so good to know there are places that can recondition them.

[JLTemp]

After a few months of acquiring parts from the EU/flea bay I could finally start fixing some more of the mechanical issues.

First thing was to remove the gear box.



The old clutch was worn and the pedal would stick half way to the floor haha. It wasn't the worst I've seen.



The flywheel wasn't worn much, had a small lip on it but got it machined anyway because why not right?



While the flywheel was off the crank seal was replaced with a new one.


New Sachs clutch in!


The old bearing was super worn


Replaced the guide tube, shaft seal, o-ring and fork but I forgot to take pictures

[JLTemp]

The car always had a heap of movement when coming off throttle or accelerating hard so I assumed the mounts were worn, just not this bad haha







Replaced those as well as the rear diff mounts as they're the same. The back wasn't as worn but still tired.

After seeing those I didn't have high hopes for the engine mounts. These were still attached but as soon as I put any torque on the nut they just let go.

[JLTemp]

Was having trouble with vacuum leaks and really poor starting because the injector o-rings had gone hard. They were pretty loose in the sleeves so out they came!

Blurry photo with the intake and injectors removed. They actually came out pretty easy. I guess the o-rings being so hard they'd shrunk a fair bit.




Old vs new



Removed the upper and lower sleeves. They screwed out relatively easy. Was a little worried about things i had read on the internet about the lower plastic sleeves breaking from being brittle but got lucky and they came out mostly intact. A few bits missing and broken but overall nothing fell inside!



Cleaned the intake face and injector area up



At this point the phone ran out of battery and I didn't get any more but its all back together and running mint now! Replaced a stack of vacuum lines because the old ones you could pull apart by hand.

The only thing that was messed up was putting the shifter rod back onto the gearbox. It isn't quite lined up with the notch on the gearbox and going into first and second gear I think I'm just hitting the transmission tunnel? I'll have a look when I get back underneath it to remove some of the exhaust to open up that 5 cylinder sound

[RobClubley]

My mounts looked like that. And my injector seals too!

[slowburn]

this car used to live around the corner from me in new town 3 years ago, was a welly car for a bit. you've done wonders for it. are you a mechanic? I need to do all those things in the near near future

[JLTemp]

I'm a engineer and welder, my dad who's helped me a fair bit is a mechanic. So I get the use of a hoist which makes life so much easier.

I didn't realise how bad those mounts were till they were actually out. I'm surprised they weren't making the engine ect move around more than they were, it's crazy!

[JLTemp]

Well, not much has been happening since my last update but I've done a few house keeping things. New WOF which required me fixing my tail lights. For some reason or another I wasn't getting power to my back right so at this point in time I just jumpered from the left tail lights. Not ideal but will do for now.

I did however while I was in the area of the tail lights 3D printed myself some new tail light housing clip things. I was 2 short and so decided I would draw some up in fusion360 and print some. I should've changed the way I had them supported when they were printed but its in the boot and I don't have to look at them haha.





The 3D printing continues! I had no centre console air vent flap. As I'm sure you're all aware as cars of this age try to blow are in any direction it tends to go in every direction. Feet, face, windows, just where ever. So having the option just to close off the centre vent even though I was on the demist setting is a bonus.





It doesn't have any sealing foam around the edges like I'm sure the original did but an upgrade and upgrade right haha. Only took me about 3 changes in design to get it to work right as I had nothing to measure off other than the vent itself.

Also made a cigarette light plug to fill in the missing cigarette lighter



As far as mechanical side of things go, today i replaced the rear differential mount as upon heavy acceleration and deceleration I would get a but of drive train clunk. Diff doesn't feel overly worn out with backlash which is a bonus. Getting the mount off without pulling the entire sub frame is a pain in the butt though. Got it out and can see the rubber is cracked and pretty much separated all the way through.



I then proceeded to not take pictures of pressing the original bush out in a 20t press because there was a lot of swearing going on about how much effort it was taking to convince it to move without cracking the actual mount. I replaced the bush with 171199214D which I believe is a gear box mount from a 4 speed diesel VW? Not sure but it pressed straight in. Have read online that you may need to skim the inside of the housing but mine was .3 under the size of the bush so thats light press fit clearance. The bush has an off set hole but the subframe is slotted so it all worked out.



Have also done a compression test on it to get an idea on what the internals are like.

Cylinder 1 - 180PSI
Cylinder 2 - 180PSI
Cylinder 3 - 180PSI
Cylinder 4 - 170PSI
Cylinder 5 - 95PSI        Wet - 105PSI

So theres something possibly in the top that has got a bit of a leak some where. Valve seat, seal, who knows. One day I'll pop the top off and get it re done. Have to save those pennies and find the bits first haha.

[Audi do]

As far as mechanical side of things go, today i replaced the rear differential mount as upon heavy acceleration and deceleration I would get a but of drive train clunk. Diff doesn't feel overly worn out with backlash which is a bonus. Getting the mount off without pulling the entire sub frame is a pain in the butt though. Got it out and can see the rubber is cracked and pretty much separated all the way through.



I then proceeded to not take pictures of pressing the original bush out in a 20t press because there was a lot of swearing going on about how much effort it was taking to convince it to move without cracking the actual mount. I replaced the bush with 171199214D which I believe is a gear box mount from a 4 speed diesel VW? Not sure but it pressed straight in. Have read online that you may need to skim the inside of the housing but mine was .3 under the size of the bush so thats light press fit clearance. The bush has an off set hole but the subframe is slotted so it all worked out.

I remember years ago that my Audi had that clunk, the dealer 'couldn't' (read couldn't be arsed) finding out and told me they didn't see any problem.

[JLTemp]

Sounds like a classic stealership response haha