What have I done :'(
Just make sure that the window winders dont conflict with the side bars..........Like Niks do >:D
Jeez that's a wee bit different to how I last saw it ;D
It is more intact than mine - can't wait to get some more bits attached.
What handbrake cover is that Rob?
Quote from: qta4 on February 22, 2009, 07:59:19 PM
Just make sure that the window winders dont conflict with the side bars..........Like Niks do >:D
Cage man says electric windows good, so they are staying.
Quote from: rambo_005 on February 22, 2009, 07:59:29 PM
Jeez that's a wee bit different to how I last saw it ;D
It is more intact than mine - can't wait to get some more bits attached.
What handbrake cover is that Rob?
You got eagle eyes there Cam, it's a black leather Golf Rallye one.
Has been removed since that pic and will be up for sale soon....
Quote from: robh on February 22, 2009, 08:04:17 PM
You got eagle eyes there Cam, it's a black leather Golf Rallye one.
Has been removed since that pic and will be up for sale soon....
I'm keen!
Quote from: robh on February 22, 2009, 07:57:46 PM
What have I done :'(
Nice, tidy handy-work! :P Must get you round sometime to help with the Roughy...
Who did you end up going with for the cage?
Quote from: robh on February 22, 2009, 07:57:46 PM
What have I done :'(
The right thing!
Imagine how insane that thing will be without all that junk!
Now take my lights off it!
Quote from: typ53 on February 22, 2009, 08:55:54 PM
Nice, tidy handy-work! :P Must get you round sometime to help with the Roughy...
Believe it or not I was actually careful removing stuff!
Quote from: vert1 on February 22, 2009, 09:06:11 PM
Who did you end up going with for the cage?
Back to Plan A, Sonic Race at the Mt.
Quote from: robh on February 22, 2009, 10:09:07 PM
Believe it or not I was actually careful removing stuff!
Ah I can truthfully say that I wasn,t careful when I stripped the 16 valve on the weekend, Knowing full well that the carpet and headliner etc were not going back in. Still got to make up my mind about the dash cover. Looking good Rob. You will need to clean the area around the base of the A pillar. I found the best way to remove the tar board was to get a blow torch and heat it up to it bubbled and the it just scrapped off easy as. Only took a few hours of chipping it before I tried another method. Are you hoping to have everything finished for the track day in May?
Yeah, I'm not so sure about the dash and heater, will see what the cage man says is possible. Probably if heater goes so will dashboard.
Prefer to keep both really at this stage, can't afford to rewire gauges, etc and prefer to stick it all back in.
Blow torch, hmm, sounds like fun, bet it smells nice.
Not in any rush to have it done. May seems a long way away, but you know how these things go!
Keep the heater for defrosting. Works much better than a rag.
I agree,and also for when its cold.does not weigh much either.
Quote from: qta4 on February 23, 2009, 06:57:48 PM
I agree,and also for when its cold.does not weigh much either.
I've got a VR6 to keep me warm :)
So you are after maximum power to weight ratio then Rob, have you thought about your 4 wheel drive bits as well?
I've been driving my mk1 with no heater core and the heat that gets in is massive.
So i was thinking i'd make a bilge fan hot and cold with a little dash vent flap.
blow hot on window & feet.
or shut it off.
Thats a good idea - a light weight marine blower system of some sort could be good. Being able to demist the screen is pretty essential IMHO.
Quote from: qta4 on February 23, 2009, 08:02:47 PM
So you are after maximum power to weight ratio then Rob, have you thought about your 4 wheel drive bits as well?
Not really, just going to listen to advice from "cage man" on what's practical and what's not.
We buggered around with 12v hairdryers and all sorts of other nonsense with XS RPM. In the end you can't beat triple layer overalls for warmth, and smeared shampoo all over the internal glass face for demisting
Quote from: Filx on February 24, 2009, 07:30:47 AM
Thats a good idea - a light weight marine blower system of some sort could be good. Being able to demist the screen is pretty essential IMHO.
The guy who recently replaced the windscreen in a mates car said he can make windscreens with heater elements in them (like rear screens) for a pretty reasonable cost, provided he's making them in a limited production run (6 or more, as opposed to one off)
Bilge blower works for the track whore just put the intake in the footwell and she is real warm ;D
Dropped car off last weekend to Bic at www.sonicrace.co.nz
Picked up a couple of Sabelt Titan's in black and alloy brackets from Dennis at www.autoquip.co.nz
Couple of teasers pics from Bic attached.
.
Dropped seats off last night.
Main 6 point cage is done including diagonal brace from main hoop to rear tower and bracing front tubes to bulkhead.
Stuff to do:
1. Door bars, won't be full X as my dodgy old hip will struggle getting in as it is
2. Rear bar between main hoop for harnesses
3. Harness anchor points
4. Seat mounts
Hopefully have some more pics tomorrow...
Door Bar
Seat Mount
I really respect anyone who can weld like that, really good.
Quote from: qta4 on March 14, 2009, 07:31:19 PM
I really respect anyone who can weld like that, really good.
at work we've got some really good welders... there is 1 character who can weld in any orientation... his work is exceptional....
More...
More...
Are you running a diagonal bar across roof Rob?
Don't think so, not sure to be honest, his brief was to build a simple 6 point cage that could be added to later if desired. I've just left him to crack on as he knows his knitting.
I had one fitted, mostly because i condidered the roof the weakest area, it causes a litle hastle tho, with cage insulation.
But my sun roof is still installed, and i can still operate that.
Looks awesome Robbo! :o
he's done lots of work in the seat area to get it like that!
Quote from: qta4 on March 17, 2009, 08:49:33 AM
I had one fitted, mostly because i condidered the roof the weakest area, it causes a litle hastle tho, with cage insulation.
But my sun roof is still installed, and i can still operate that.
Despite having pretty large footings the vertical tubes could be "wobbled" until he added some braces from the front tubes to the bulkhead and also the rear diagonal from the main hoop to the rear tower.
You could go nuts adding bars all over if you had deep pockets aye!
when you buy a roll cage do you get any paper work with it?
thats a question for anyone that has a roll cage...
i dont have one yet, but i think you send off photos of all the welds before paint with letter from engineer to mnz. they send back log book
Collected car this weekend.
Cage looks good, car looks pretty sad with windows out and wiring all over the shop!
Next I'm focussing on removing all wiring looms and doing them properly, removing all redundant sections and re routing wiring out of harms way (i.e. exhaust manifold). Surprising how much stuff isn't needed already :)
Toying with the idea of ditching standard power steering pump and fitting an electric unit so I can clear more space and weight from front of car, not sure if this will fly. Had a good look at what the cage man did on a V8 Muscle Car and it's a really neat way to redistribute weight and free up space.
Electric power steering, now that is a good idea,.
Are they available in NZ?
9N Polo's have them as std, pump & fluid tank as one can be mounted anywhere.
Have brand new one here if you want to have a look at one.
Could one be fitted to a mk1 golf John,maybe the whole 9N column
Noel, check this link out:
http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?content=remanufactured_electric_power_steering_and_electric_hydraulic_power_steering
You could use one from Peugeot, Citroen or new Polo. Remote mount the pump, but I guess your issue is sourcing a suitable power rack?
Some others have the pump intergrated into the steering column, is that more what your thinking?
Quote from: vert1 on March 31, 2009, 11:34:23 AM
9N Polo's have them as std, pump & fluid tank as one can be mounted anywhere.
Have brand new one here if you want to have a look at one.
Have you looked at the wiring for one of these?
Do you think it would be simple to run or is it going to need "special" VW black box to control?
Have not looked closely at it, from memory pump unit has + and - so should be straight forward.
There will ofcourse be a diagnostic wire also but don't see why it woudn't run without it, would be good to have a look and maybe try it.
Quote from: qta4 on March 31, 2009, 11:02:13 AM
Electric power steering, now that is a good idea,.
Are they available in NZ?
pretty sure the Mk5 Golf has electric PAS
I think some Vectras have a electric power steer system as well that uses a electric motor to add power to the standard rack..... or am i wrong....have been before.
I have always toyed with adding honda PS to my mk1 from a civic. pump and rack. Couldn't be that hard could it?
Quote from: qta4 on March 31, 2009, 11:02:13 AM
Electric power steering, now that is a good idea,.
Are they available in NZ?
Late model Civics have electric power steering, its meant to numb the steering feel though (what I have read).
Alternatively you could go to the gym ;) If you lived closer you could come alone with me? How does 6am sound?
steering feel on the Mk5 is way better than a wooden Mk4
Quote from: Golfboy666GTI on March 31, 2009, 05:46:53 PM
Late model Civics have electric power steering, its meant to numb the steering feel though (what I have read).
Alternatively you could go to the gym ;) If you lived closer you could come alone with me? How does 6am sound?
The only reason for fitting P/S is to enable an increase of caster Nik.
Power steering is so you can hold your line without the steering kicking you around to much as you cant hold the wheel true enough without it really. I think on a targa it would be so tiring to not have power steer.
Im a delicate wee thing, still snoring with the cats at 6am.
Jem,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,FGS.
Quote from: BB on March 31, 2009, 08:24:36 PM
Power steering is so you can hold your line without the steering kicking you around to much as you cant hold the wheel true enough without it really. I think on a targa it would be so tiring to not have power steer.
Im a delicate wee thing, still snoring with the cats at 6am.
WTF, get some weights Jem, man up. Ypu were representing Greenpeace on Breakfast last week were you? ;)
Me? No? No greenpeace.
My arms are like twigs.
Wob wants P/S too :-X
Quote from: BB on March 31, 2009, 09:07:44 PM
Me? No? No greenpeace.
My arms are like twigs.
.
I agree ;D
Quote from: BB on March 31, 2009, 08:24:36 PM
I think on a targa it would be so tiring to not have power steer.
Hell yeah it's tiring enough manhandling the old 130TC half a dozen laps around Taupo on a summers day!
And with FWD, an LSD and no P/S, I almost had to turn the intercom down in XS RPM - Stacey would be huffing and puffing into the mic halfway through the long Targa stages! Hard work alright
Quote from: bigbumper on March 31, 2009, 09:37:39 PM
Hell yeah it's tiring enough manhandling the old 130TC half a dozen laps around Taupo on a summers day!
And with FWD, an LSD and no P/S, I almost had to turn the intercom down in XS RPM - Stacey would be huffing and puffing into the mic halfway through the long Targa stages! Hard work alright
How did people survive in the 70's/80's when these cars were new?
They had hopeless tyres and only 1.6 engines. And they complained, hence PS became standard on almost all cars no matter how small.
In a targa, if you dip a wheel into a corner and hit a pot hole the steering can be dangerously ripped out of your hands, PS is a good thing.
Particularly if you want to race when you get older or have arms like twigs
Quote from: Golfboy666GTI on April 01, 2009, 08:14:44 AM
How did people survive in the 70's/80's when these cars were new?
Mine has wider, larger diameter tyres and a smaller Momo steering wheel, which makes the steering a fair bit heavier. Plus the lowered suspension won't help there either
What about arms like twigs? Have you got those?
Nah bigbumper has huge guns. Some say Hulk Hogan rung him for advice. :D
I've looked into electric assist steering. It is attached to steering col. to help turn it, you use normal rack with a sensor such as abs to measure hub speed and then send signal with regards to how much assistance it gives. Obviously parking speed more, caning it less.
From what I know of these things the Opel system is reasonably easy to retrofit to other vehicles. I think Ashton Wood and Bran Stokes are both running this set up on their BDA Escorts . (They are also using high ratio steering racks). I am sure that Colin McRae ran the same thing on his BDA as well
IMO if you need PS on a Mk1 golf then I would suspect there was something wrong either with wheel alignment,suspension or steering rack.
One thing to check is that if you are running to much negative camber the driveshafts may need to be shortened by about 5mm.
At the extreme the driveshafts start tryng to push through the end of the CVs causing some binding
Had a look at the 9N Polo pump today, rack is a normal PAS rack with electric pump/res set up.
Multiple plugs on the pump so probably has "black box" built in but with a wiring diagram its easy enough to find out what each does and where it gets its signal/inputs from.
Oh yeah the late Polo steering pumps are run by a computer alright. Quite normal to have to clear stored faults in them to be able to get them to go again after they have had a really flat battery
There is short and long driveshafts on mk1s I belive and its well bad to have the to long one in so Ive heard. :)
Reach under your car and make sure you can clunk your shafts back and forwards a bit to make sure you have freeplay there.
Quote from: BB on April 02, 2009, 04:46:39 PM
There is short and long driveshafts on mk1s I belive and its well bad to have the to long one in so Ive heard. :)
Reach under your car and make sure you can clunk your shafts back and forwards a bit to make sure you have freeplay there.
The problem comes if you run to much camber, it shortens the distance between the cvs and causes issues
We are running more camber than the standard set up will allow, we have sloteed the bottom holes on the struts
Well haven't progressed far.
Spent many hours last week in the evenings with looms on the dining table.
With all the trim out it so much easier to fix this stuff up.
Most of the sub looms are ok and don't need any work, I just picked my way through them looking for anything that has long since departed.
One is really messy and is a combination of original VW loom and my first attempt to fix up a pro's poor attempt at installing a Link Plus. Think I'm going to start from scratch on this whole piece and do it properly. The main thing that will make it easier is everything that's connected works, so I'm not having to work stuff out as I go.
I remember having my AEB's wiring loom on the kitchen table with an ohmeter checking continuity, drawing my own circuit diagram, before i managed to get the correct diagram from technical books in Auckland.
The biggest issue is understanding what we need and what can be discarded.
The engine bay wiring loom of the AEB Passat only required ,12v fixed, 12v starter,12v ignition,temp sensor,oil pressure , and an earth to integrate with the Mk1 wiring. The oil pressure guage was an extra,as was the temp sensor for the guage.
Good fun though.
Quote from: qta4 on April 07, 2009, 06:51:05 PM
I remember having my AEB's wiring loom on the kitchen table with an ohmeter checking continuity, drawing my own circuit diagram, before i managed to get the correct diagram from technical books in Auckland.
The biggest issue is understanding what we need and what can be discarded.
The engine bay wiring loom of the AEB Passat only required ,12v fixed, 12v starter,12v ignition,temp sensor,oil pressure , and an earth to integrate with the Mk1 wiring. The oil pressure guage was an extra,as was the temp sensor for the guage.
Good fun though.
Sounds like you need a new project Noel? All those lonely wires not connected to nothing../.
Here you go Rob
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Performance/Other/auction-212599772.htm (http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Performance/Other/auction-212599772.htm)
Cheers
Yeah I saw that, but I'm a tin pot and want to try and source something cheaper than that....
Funny thing is electro pumps go for bugger all on ebay uk, pretty scarce here though.
Quote from: Bullseye on April 14, 2009, 08:54:02 AM
Here you go Rob
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Performance/Other/auction-212599772.htm (http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Performance/Other/auction-212599772.htm)
Cheers
That unit simply replaces the power steering pump,, i think Robh was after something different
Quote from: qta4 on April 14, 2009, 09:41:20 AM
That unit simply replaces the power steering pump,, i think Robh was after something different
That is exactly what I'm after, but I'm too tight to pay $500 plus for it :)
I gather it's to gain space not BHP?
Quote from: GTI's on April 14, 2009, 10:46:26 AM
I gather it's to gain space not BHP?
Yip, just trying to tidy things up in the engine bay and make everything more serviceable.
Also moves a little weight rearwards which can't be a bad thing in my car!
Any pix?
I've posted a couple up already. Inside of car is a bit of a mess at the moment, stuff everywhere!
I'll post some up when I've got further through tidy up....
Just found out my cage is chrome-moly :)
Bic has put some pics up here:
http://www.sonicrace.co.nz/pages/projects/news.html
Nice, you painting the cage?
Thinking of clear coating it.
Looks really good Robh.
Now you will be able to try harder at track day ;D
Did a couple of hours today, stripped some more of that black tar crap from the inside, pretty soul less work, doesn't feel much like progress!
Dummied up the battery mount for Optima (thanks Andy), will drill and bolt up tomorrow:
Started trimming back dash corners to fit around cage, still need to trim back a little more...
Haven't done much for a while. Recently been tidying up intercooler installation. Never been happy with how close the rear pipework sat against the bulkhead, the lack of support from underneath and also the lack of access to cable shift and clutch slave cylinder.
So I removed the silicone joiner from the front of intercooler to the 90 degree alloy bend and had the bend welded directly to the intercooler. This pulled the intercooler forward a good inch or 2 and well clear of the bulkhead.
The alloy bend from the turbo compressor outlet was such a tight fit it had to be cut well past the straight section into the actual bend, again I was never really happy with it. So I've replaced it with a 90 degree Samco hose that fits better and still clears the bulkhead.
To support the intercooler I've used a drainpipe clamp from Master trade that has a 10mm stud fitting underneath. I will make up a bracket that will bolt to gearbox for the stud to bolt into. This way when the motor/gearbox moves the intercooler moves with it all as one unit.
One thing i have found frustrating while building and rebuilding my car is the fact that with the authority cards we have to do 3 motorsport events per year,
I am now past that , but i found it difficult at the time.
Good luck with thsi project Rob.
Do you have a roundabout price on what the 6 point cage cost you for the golf?
Robh's is cro-molly a mild steel one is about 1850 like the one in my mk1
Ok, I've been thinking off and on about whether I should keep or ditch factory heater/fan unit.
After talking with Brendan yesterday I'm swinging towards ditching it all and installing a simple 12v electric heater fan unit ducted into the dashboard windscreen demister ducting. Something simple like this:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Other-accessories/auction-241378708.htm
What do you think?
I doubt that that hair dryer would do as good a job. Tho it may be enough to keep the screen clear just.
Is your car ever going to be used as a travel car again? If so i would keep thee factory stuff if its a track short fun driver only then ditch it.
Too be honest I liked your car as a driver, for most of us track days are too far and few to dedicate a car like yours too.
I have to agree, factory fan box weighs F all so I'd keep it.
Rip out the AC evap and put the ox back in, easier and better.
Race cars don't need heaters!
Get some nuts!
cars looking good dude! i hope your keeping the battery charged whilst not usuing it? pm us if you have n e issues? looking forward to seeing out on track! n e chance of getting some measurements of your dash and what youve done to fit it?? i might put the passat dash in golf?
Quote from: GTI's on September 13, 2009, 10:10:42 AM
Race cars don't need heaters!
Get some nuts!
If your talking about getting some nuts, driver your car to the track!
Matt, Dad and I do, heaters come in handy on the cold winter morning and evening, and passing all the slow coaches towing there cars home is very satisfying.
Remember Robs car is still going to be road legal, not a deadicated race car.
I say keep the heater.
Oh, and race cars do real race meetings, not track days ;D
Sooner or later the 70's heater core you have will spew boiling water all over you.
And will fog your windows up ;)
Hope to see you at a track day soon :-*
I count on the heat generated on my firewall to keep me warm and the windows dry.
Don't think i'll be driving it around NZ anytime soon.
Can't wait for Hampton downs.
Quote from: GTI's on September 13, 2009, 10:53:53 AM
Sooner or later the 70's heater core you have will spew boiling water all over you.
And will fog your windows up ;)
Hope to see you at a track day soon :-*
I count on the heat generated on my firewall to keep me warm and the windows dry.
Don't think i'll be driving it around NZ anytime soon.
Can't wait for Hampton downs.
Targa cars have heaters. The weight saving would be sweet FA at the end of the day.
Dad wouldnt be without his heater on the race track during wet meetings.
Suit gets damp between races, car fogs up and even with the fan and heater on full it can be a struggle to keep the screen clear.
Hampton Downs should be good.
I did it mainly because i rushed to the very last minute building my car.
The option is always there to install or make something up that doesn't involve water.
You could use a mk4 core and just have a small fan that blows it towards the window.
Can't wait to see your car back on a track Robbo!
And I'm serious about coming to help a night a week to help re assemble it.
Rob - We tried one of those hair dryers (in fact we tried running two) - pretty freakin useless
In the end we used shampoo to keep the windscreen demisted - worked a charm and weighs nothing
Hate to contradict you Nik but XS RPM never had a heater any of the times we did Targa
No heater in the Honda either, but I do have a windscreen fan
And the cold has never been an issue for us - if it was I guess we'd just wear an extra layer of clothes :P
Hmm, now more undecided than before.
Not going to be driving it much on the road anymore, too loud and uncomfortable. I would drive to Hampton Downs and the drags in it but not Taupo anymore.
So I only really want to avoid the screen misting up, don't care about keeping me warm inside the car.
I'm not really trying to remove weight more trying to simplify things for maintainence and ease of access to bits and pieces. It's all extra wiring, hoses, etc that has to be installed.
Does the shampoo thing work really well and how long does it last?
Just replace the heater core and leave it in there, its tucked away under the dash and non ac ones weighs bugger all
As per above... if you can find one from a non A/C Mk2 it will be small, light and simple.
Yep the shampoo thing works perfectly, we'd apply it at the start of the rally and then again on the morning after any rainy days
If the heater in the Golf is any good then I'd consider retaining it if I were you
how bout rainx anti fog??
Hi Rob, I found I could not get the heater box back in with the dash support bar in the way so that took care about the choices we had. But I was always worried about if the plastic heater core ends could take the extra heat demands that an engine develops at racing speeds. I mean on the road there are few places that you can run an engine at full throttle for any length of time but at the track you can do it lap after lap after lap. You definitely don,t get cold in a track car. I left the windscreen demister vent in place in the dash and simply added a blower fan to the end of it with a bit of flexible hosing. The benefits for me will be when I refit the engine and can prune some more hoses from the engine bay. Less to go wrong
Quote from: AndyGti on September 13, 2009, 11:49:30 PM
how bout rainx anti fog??
I've never been impressed by that stuff. Their exterior treatment works well though
You should get down to a commercial toyota wrecker and steal one of the electric heater elements that came on the hiace buses. Then it would be a simple matter of adapting for 24volt and setting up a fan to blow through the element
Quote from: vag_nutter on September 13, 2009, 10:43:10 PM
Just replace the heater core and leave it in there, its tucked away under the dash and non ac ones weighs bugger all
As per my last post it's not about the weight.
Quote from: 16valve on September 14, 2009, 07:38:07 AM
Hi Rob, I found I could not get the heater box back in with the dash support bar in the way so that took care about the choices we had. But I was always worried about if the plastic heater core ends could take the extra heat demands that an engine develops at racing speeds. I mean on the road there are few places that you can run an engine at full throttle for any length of time but at the track you can do it lap after lap after lap. You definitely don,t get cold in a track car. I left the windscreen demister vent in place in the dash and simply added a blower fan to the end of it with a bit of flexible hosing. The benefits for me will be when I refit the engine and can prune some more hoses from the engine bay. Less to go wrong
Hey Al, I know what you mean. My cage is bracketed against the front bulkhead and doesn't have a bar running accross underneath the dash, so I do have room to put it all back in. You've seen how hot my car gets around pukey and that's with the stock motor on 7psi so it's only going to run hotter with more boost. I've melted my rain tray and my brake booster hose in the past :)
So does your blower fan work? Is it a car based one? Are you just channalling hot air from the engine bay through it?
Quote from: robh on September 14, 2009, 08:16:37 PM
So does your blower fan work? Is it a car based one? Are you just channalling hot air from the engine bay through it?
Fumes = bad idea
good point
No I have sealed the firewall off. I just recirculate air already in the car with the fan mounted up under the dash. Never had to use the fan at Taupo at the last track day but does seem to blow air onto the windscreen quite nicely. 2 speed fan from an old kombi van about 110mm diameter. Most race cars I have seen use a boat bilge fan. We trimmed the engine bay bulkhead down, so there is no wiper cavity anymore so no fresh air intake only engine fumes. (that was the main reason to seal up the fresh air intake) I have left enough room in the engine bay to be able to run a fresh air tube from behind the grille into the cockpit at a later date if the car needs it. The window down 1/2 inch seems to work well.
Been inspired by Brendon's progress and spent a couple of afternoons over Christmas in the garage.
To be honest haven't achieved much, removing all that black tar crap takes forever and is bad for the soul!
closer look at the mess
a lot more work to do on this side...
removed rear seat belt mounts
Quote from: robh on January 04, 2010, 08:41:42 PM
removed rear seat belt mounts
robh where is a pic of your car?
here you go, but she will look different when back on the road...
wow!! thats awesome
EDIT: different how? want to sell your rallye lights and grill?
lovin that cage in the mk2 Rob, makes me want one too. they look awseome behind the big windows of the three door ;D
So glad you caged this beast Robh.
This car is fast and still has massive power potential. Its still running standard pistons and its got a turbo! Spend another 10k on that motor and it will be a red devil ;D
You love to spend money on it Rob........... :P If only we could have more MONEY!!!!!
last of the rear belt mounts removed...
finished removing the roof sound proofing glue, all the dynamat glue from rear quarters, sound proofing glue from bulkhead and dashboard area, all the black tar crap from floor and boot...
At least you know you wont have to do that job again :P
Looks well clean.
Removed turbo and exhaust manifold this afternoon to look into exhaust leak big enough to shoot a large ball of fire out of the exhaust in the engine bay!
Easy to spot once the turbo bag was off, the flange from the turbo to the downpipe was very loose, 1 bolt missing, the remaining 4 all in various states of looseness.
I'll get all the surfaces refaced and 1 dodgy thread recoiled then off to get the turbo HPC'd or Procoated.
Procoat. Tim is great.
Great work on the glue Rob - car looks awesome.
Quote from: robh on January 10, 2010, 07:58:00 PM
last of the rear belt mounts removed...
Who mounted that rear bar behind the suspension?
Quote from: Golfboy666GTI on January 18, 2010, 08:03:58 AM
Who mounted that rear bar behind the suspension?
It's actually in front of the suspension and it was Bic at www.sonicrace.co.nz
Same problem on ours Rob, exhaust bolts to turbo came loose and also downpipe bolts.
Seems like a reasonably common thing with turbo cars, it it keeps happening we'll just wire tie them.
Why do you remove the belt mounts? For a tidy look only or is there other reasons?
Saves weight and looks better :-*
Quote from: vert1 on January 18, 2010, 04:44:22 PM
Same problem on ours Rob, exhaust bolts to turbo came loose and also downpipe bolts.
Seems like a reasonably common thing with turbo cars, it it keeps happening we'll just wire tie them.
The guys at Top Gear Autotech reckon I should be using studs not bolts.
I'll give it a go and see what happens....
Quote from: BB on January 18, 2010, 05:25:32 PM
Why do you remove the belt mounts? For a tidy look only or is there other reasons?
Removed several brackets that are never going to be used again. Minimal weight loss but it all adds up and I have to paint the inside anyway.
Isn't there a thread locker for exhaust applications? rated to several hundred degrees centrigrade or something...
Air to air IC Rob - light and simple. Colin Chapman would want you to do it. :D
Quote from: Filx on January 19, 2010, 09:58:35 AM
Air to air IC Rob - light and simple. Colin Chapman would want you to do it. :D
Since when was a VR6 and 4wd light and simple :)
Since you started removing seatbelt brackets and sound deadening glue >:D
Bugger you've got me!
I'm still not removing my water barrel.
I will be back into it soon mate and we'll sort the inside out and help get it all back together!
Pulled the engine/gearbox out yesterday.
The clutch is already looking worn out to me and we only swapped it not long ago :(
Jem, it was the one we put in at my office carpark, remember? The uprated unit.
Haven't done many km's at all with it. I'll take it into autoclutch and also take a standard worn out Sachs unit to, then see what they recommend....
Bad quality Rob or been slipping?
Whats the flywheel surface look like?
Our southbend one has been great so far, feels much better now that it has a few miles on it.
Not sure, I don't think it's slipped at all though.
Flywheel face looks pretty clean and straight to me.
1st gear and the final drive is very high and you do need to slip it to get off the line, but I'm not that hard on it.
I'll see what autoclutch say.
They didn't supply the clutch though.
Would a Puk clutch help?
Time to restart the old thread.
Off to the paint shop on Saturday to get the inside and engine bay painted.
Decided it will be worth the extra cost and hassle to get the engine bay done at the same time as it's looking pretty tatty in there.
Anyway, been stripping out the last of the bits and pieces that are still in the way.
Just got brake servo, clutch cylinders, bottom of downpipe to go and then off she goes.
Plan is to get it back before Christmas so I can start working in her over the break :)
So what part of the clutch looks worn? Is the plate nearly down to the rivets or something or just some blueing and dust?
Be good to see this car out and about again Rob ;)
Can't wait for this to be back on the track! A VW invasion at HD late summer 2011 would be epic.
Quote from: BB on November 03, 2010, 09:07:19 AM
So what part of the clutch looks worn? Is the plate nearly down to the rivets or something or just some blueing and dust?
Be good to see this car out and about again Rob ;)
Plate nearly down to the rivets.
That is odd if you have done lowish Kms and haven't abused it to hard.
How many track days did you do on it?
You say it was never slipping, and you'd know if it was in that car.
Yet clutch slip is the only way the plate actually wears and that usually involves much stop start town driving.
Can you remember any times you think you may have given it a real hard time?
Autoclutch will just want to make you a carbon kevlar plate as thats what they do, but they don't like any slipping as well, ive had to revers up a steep drive with mine and I wasn't doing anything untowards and it stank! I told him and he said "don't slip it"
I have had it let go at track days as well but once cooled down it seems to be ok again. I must have gotten much smoother at HD because the last day I did I didn't slip it at all.
My one only slips because its an old 020 box set up, hopeless on an ABF really but its working.
Paint colour choice for inside and engine bay?
Thinking of a base colour rather than trying to match exterior colour. Black is no good inside of a track car, white would look odd with the outside being black, so how about silver?
Quote from: robh on November 15, 2010, 11:00:41 PM
Paint colour choice for inside and engine bay?
Thinking of a base colour rather than trying to match exterior colour. Black is no good inside of a track car, white would look odd with the outside being black, so how about silver?
What about red?
Dark Grey/Silver, like a Gunmetal Metallic colour. Would look really nice.
Battle ship grey would look nice.
like the inside of the anglebox 8)
I think if you're going to paint the engine bay a different colour pick something you would consider for your roll cage as well. Since it's going to be a beast, I thought red would represent the mouth of this track weapon - there's a huge range of 'reds', but we all know grey is awesome :D
interesting never thought of that, could go well????
think practical, what is going to be easiest/most visibility if you have to work on the motor in low light situations?
white too glarey, so a lightish gloss gray probably best, not metallic to minimise distraction
Is the cage homologated yet Rob? Sounds like it's worth getting on to this side of Christmas before the pending rule changes. I don't know the detail but I'm sure others here will have more up to date info.
I'd paint the inside a subtle, non/low reflective colour. If you want to detail it a bit a different colour cage and matching engine bay could work well as Anglebox mentioned.
whats changing re the cages after xmas? i know they need to be welded 360 degrees around the tubes now. Sounds obvious, but you'd be surprised how many cages don't have welds around the entire tube up by the roof. This applies to old cages too and you have two options. cut holes in the roof and weld up the cages, or cut holes in the floor, drop the cage down, weld the top, jack the cage back up again and weld in new floor mounts. crazy!
Or like us, drill the roof skin off :laugh:
Quote from: Trofeo on November 16, 2010, 10:56:30 AM
whats changing re the cages after xmas? i know they need to be welded 360 degrees around the tubes now. Sounds obvious, but you'd be surprised how many cages don't have welds around the entire tube up by the roof. This applies to old cages too and you have two options. cut holes in the roof and weld up the cages, or cut holes in the floor, drop the cage down, weld the top, jack the cage back up again and weld in new floor mounts. crazy!
Oh for damn sake ::)This is really going to help safety isn't it as people either don't get cages installed at all or just drive the damn things and hope they don't get caught.
How can they back date what THEY said was ok in the first place? I can understand new cages requiring this but to make old cages do it is crazy!
Wonder about my Fiat?
Quote from: BB on November 18, 2010, 09:59:06 AM
Oh for damn sake ::)This is really going to help safety isn't it as people either don't get cages installed at all or just drive the damn things and hope they don't get caught.
How can they back date what THEY said was ok in the first place? I can understand new cages requiring this but to make old cages do it is crazy!
Wonder about my Fiat?
I think youre thinking about it from a track days point of view Jem. These rules are coming out for real race meeting. Though the standards will include anyone whos got a rollcage. And the way Motorsport NZ have it sorted you have to compete in a number of motorsport events a year (not including track days).
Changing od diameter minimum from 38mm to 44mm i think 1st jan for cages.
I spoke to the technical guy at MSNZ and he said there are some minor detail changes but the main one was the OD of the main hoop.
On the colour front we thinking of going with gray inside and engine bay, so it won't clash with the very shiney black outside.
i have my car booked in to be caged before xmas. i spoke to the guy about rule changes ,he said he'd been making them compliant to the new rules since the beginning of the year. 8)
full cage for under $1000 in waiuku.
Car all prepped and ready for paint, should be ready to collect next week, yeah!
Quote from: robh on December 10, 2010, 12:26:51 AM
Car all prepped and ready for paint, should be ready to collect next week, yeah!
Get that paperwork in just in case they want more photos of the welds.
i miss this car!! it is the most developed :o,most psycho mk2 >:D! cant wait to see it on track.
will you be at the jan2 track day at hd rob?
Quote from: AngleBox on December 10, 2010, 08:41:47 AM
Get that paperwork in just in case they want more photos of the welds.
Already sent the other week, good tip!
Quote from: choppy16v on December 10, 2010, 09:43:27 AM
i miss this car!! it is the most developed :o,most psycho mk2 >:D! cant wait to see it on track.
will you be at the jan2 track day at hd rob?
It'll still be a while until it's going again, got lots of brackets to fab for revised cooling, lots of hose work to change, heaps of wiring to redo, basically lots of reliability type stuff!
Trouble is every time I look at something I think "that could be better" and start fiddling.
Inside and engine bay painted, collecting Saturday, yeah!
...
...
far out rob that looks wicked! this car will be equally at home on track or at a car show.
Sweet - should be ready for HD on the 2nd of Jan then!
Quote from: Filx on December 16, 2010, 04:58:29 PM
Sweet - should be ready for HD on the 2nd of Jan then!
2012?
Looks GREAT Rob
thumbs up!!
Quote from: gti vr6 on December 16, 2010, 05:19:00 PM
Looks GREAT Rob
thumbs up!!
have to agree look pro man
Looks very, very cool Rob.
Quote from: choppy16v on December 10, 2010, 09:43:27 AM
i miss this car!! it is the most developed :o,most psycho mk2 >:D! cant wait to see it on track.
Hell yeah, awesome machine!
Nice work, will be good to see it on the road again.
Took the worn out (hardly any km's) uprated clutch into Autoclutch.
He took one look at it and knew straight away what the problem was. The pedal travel needed reducing as the uprated plate was narrower than the standard plate that was in it previously. I had no idea and no instructions came with the unit.
At least it explains why it didn't last many km's and why reverse would often crunch.
He said it was a good unit and just needed to be relined and refaced, plus a new release bearing.
Looks awesome this....love the colour of the under hood etc.
Gearbox bellhousing thread repaired.
Swapping out old mark 3 cable shifter and shift tower for the updated version from the mark 4.
Also have the following parts on their way:
Link G4 Xtreme
4 bar MAP Sensor
725cc Injectors
Head Gasket Spacer to 9.0:1
ARP Exhaust Studs
Will have Link Plus G1 for sale and also 6 x 440cc high impedence injectors.
Oooooh goody! Gonna make POWAAAAH! >:D
Quote from: robh on March 15, 2011, 02:44:14 PM
Gearbox bellhousing thread repaired.
Swapping out old mark 3 cable shifter and shift tower for the updated version from the mark 4.
Also have the following parts on their way:
Link G4 Xtreme
4 bar MAP Sensor
725cc Injectors
Head Gasket Spacer to 9.0:1
ARP Exhaust Studs
Will have Link Plus G1 for sale and also 6 x 440cc high impedence injectors.
Where did you get the spacer from?
What colour is your car Rob??
An old pic of the Robmobile from a 2008 track day:
(https://www.vask.org.nz/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi137.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq239%2Frambo_005%2FVASK%2520Track%2520Day%2520Taupo%25202008%2FP5230038.jpg&hash=a049bc570cbe35d4f980654cb6f70fb9ae5c9621)
What's the colour name though? paint code?
Quote from: 00basil00 on March 15, 2011, 06:40:27 PM
Where did you get the spacer from?
Schimmel Performance, they supplied a big pile of engine parts as well, but I haven't got around to building that yet.
Why the head spacer Rob? Thought you had an engine with forged internals?
Quote from: 80 Vert on March 15, 2011, 08:39:47 PM
Why the head spacer Rob? Thought you had an engine with forged internals?
Don't want to map a freshly built motor from scatch, will be easier and less risky to map my old one with a spacer and then I can just run the new motor in safely before doing a full dyno map on it.
People have made some good power on a standard vr6 with just a head spacer
Quote from: 00basil00 on March 15, 2011, 08:59:06 PM
People have made some good power on a standard vr6 with just a head spacer
But for how long for?
Quote from: RS ZWEI on March 16, 2011, 11:34:58 AM
But for how long for?
I bet I'll be able to answer that when it's going again :)
Quote from: RS ZWEI on March 16, 2011, 11:34:58 AM
But for how long for?
Depends on how much power you want and how good the tuner is, but people make 300-400hp quite easily, have seen one making over 550hp
Head spacer increases the compression ratio. Very important for those running a bigger aftermarket turbo on the VR motors as Vert and Rob.
Quote from: Omes on March 18, 2011, 11:55:22 AM
Head spacer increases the compression ratio. Very important for those running a bigger aftermarket turbo on the VR motors as Vert and Rob.
It decreases it and its just a cheap way of boosting an na engine
Quote from: 00basil00 on March 18, 2011, 11:59:17 AM
It decreases it and its just a cheap way of boosting an na engine
sorry yep I meant decreases. Typically reduces the compression down to 9:1 which is good going for turbo running VR6's
The spacers will work fine, just as long as it dont get to hot.
But having the spacer will help with the heat.
Plus the subaru scoop on the bonnet.........that old chestnut :laugh:
Look forward to this car going again, it scared the hell out of me 8)
More goodies sourced:
Bosch 044 Fuel Pump from NZ Performance, thanks Paul.
Integrated Engineering Surge Tank from Flix, thanks Phil.
Mark 4 O2J shifter, cables and shift tower from VWSpares, thanks Allan.
New Mac valve for boost control from Link ECU, thanks Cameron.
Quote from: robh on March 19, 2011, 02:20:53 PM
More goodies sourced:
Bosch 044 Fuel Pump from NZ Performance, thanks Paul.
Integrated Engineering Surge Tank from Flix, thanks Phil.
Mark 4 O2J shifter, cables and shift tower from VWSpares, thanks Allan.
New Mac valve for boost control from Link ECU, thanks Cameron.
what voltage is the mac valve?
From memory 5v
Just sourced:
Accusump (needs a tear down and clean out)
Motul 300V Oil
Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid
Next item sourced:
Mercedes A Class Electric Power Steering Pump, as used by Porsche 997 Cup Cars, very expensive if you buy the "motorsport" version ;)
Quote from: robh on March 24, 2011, 09:07:47 AM
Next item sourced:
Mercedes A Class Electric Power Steering Pump, as used by Porsche 997 Cup Cars, very expensive if you buy the "motorsport" version ;)
For real? Its the same part?
interesting tip ;)
Quote from: RS ZWEI on March 24, 2011, 11:48:25 AM
For real? Its the same part?
From what I have found on the net it is, I haven't seen with my own eyes a 997 Cup car though.
Maybe that explains why the A-classes flip....steering to quick for a small car.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Um-XlKerWvA (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Um-XlKerWvA)
How much Rob? I was planning on using a Polo one but Porsche 997 Cup sounds way better :D
Was it hard to find?
Hard to find in NZ, but they do pop up on ebay uk from time to time. I won't say what I paid for mine, but it was really, really cheap!
Common fault is water getting into the electronics, but if you simply want to power the pump on and off from your own relay, aftermarket ECU, etc they will still work.
What about mounting them etc? Pretty straight forward?
I'm really excited to see this progressing Rob - can't wait to see if I can hang with you down the back straight at Puke!
Planning on mounting inside car, pump has reservior built into it. 2 wires to drive it, 1 pressure hose, 1 return hose, done?
Imagine that a 1.8T versus VR6 contest, never seen that before on VASK aye? If yours is faster I'll just say you spent more money on it or something like that :)
Interesting - a friend of mine has got an MR2 electric pump (from memory) but maybe this is an easier option.
MR2 is common option, but I think the Merc one is lighter/smaller/newer, plus how cool is a Porsche motorsport part :)
Check out the blurb about the trick mounts about 3/4 down the page here http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4902019-I-heart-lego-s/page6 (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4902019-I-heart-lego-s/page6). Interesting for the VR6 Mk2 peeps me thinks.
More parts sourced:
Display Link from Link ECU, going to biff out my VDO and SPA gauges
EGT thermcouple and interface box from SPA
Still need to source some 5v sensors for:
Oil Pressure 100psi
Fuel Pressure 60psi
anyone got any leads for these?
Quote from: robh on January 04, 2010, 08:40:11 PM
closer look at the mess
A little late for you, but maybe not for someone else attempting the same thing. I was told that if you freeze the floor with Dry Ice pellets it freezes the sheets of sound deadener and you can whack it with a hammer and it falls of. Tried it out last night and it works pretty well.
Nearly sorted conversion to O2J shifter on an O2A box.
Had to swap shift tower which was interesting as I couldn't get 6th gear to engage. Found a small bolt that hits a ramp on the shift tower that pushes mechanism away from 6th gear back into 4th. Ground 6mm off the end of the bolt and it looks good now.
Also the normal mark IV O2J gear shift wouldn't fit in mark 2 tunnel. Tracked down a housing and arm from a 3 cylinder diesel Polo that you can move all the mark IV parts into. Even with that I had to take a couple of small notches out to clear the propshaft hangar brackets.
Still need to test fit engine and box into car and make sure cable lengths ok and shifter works when everything is in place.
Re foamed heater box flaps.
Re doing some brake lines soon....
hearty!
Keep pushing.
Rob,
I know this is slightly OT but do you know if the shift tower is the section that controls the fore and aft tension on the shifter inside the car? Mine has a fair bit of play longitudinally but is fine laterally and I'm trying to find the offending part.
I presume there's a spring somewhere in there that's broken.
Craig, are you talking O2A shifter, tower and cables?
I'm not an expert on this, but one of the bushes in the shifter end of the cable had collapsed and made if feel like a bit of slop. Also the gubbins in the shift tower that goes into the box can get a bit of play in it.
I never pursued stripping it all down as the O2J setup is supposed to be much better.
Your welcome to look through my O2A pile of bits, they are out of the car and may give you an idea what gets worn?
Yep, I've still got an 02A.
That's a great offer Rob, I'll be in touch.
Progress on some little jobs:
* Slam panel now attaches with rivnuts
* Revised FPR mount
* Revised clutch line
* Rebuilt brake master cylinder
* Swapped master cylinder reservior for neater version
* Replaced hose to clutch master cylinder
* Revised brake hard line
* Revised vacuum fittings from inlet manifold
* O2J shifter on O2A box appears to work
Only little bits, but they all take time....
Im glad you still add to vask Robh.
Love to see some photos of the beast again.
Look forward to this incarnation and a new ride around Puke!
* EGT probe install in turbo
* Air Temp Sensor installed in inlet pipework
* Removed factory heatsheild and rubber from shift cables and replaced with race spec thermo sleeve, sounds simple but was pretty fiddly to sort as you can't fully strip cables down
* Fixed a mounting thread in fuel rail
* Installed Fuel Pressure Sensor into FPR
Turbo is off to Pro Coat this week to get dealt to.
Then all that's left to do is everything else!
Keep working man! Get that thing going!!!
Spent a few hours getting nothing done. Tried to work out how to fit intercooler, header tank and air filter intake all in the same space and they basically don't!
Will make up air filter intake as best I can and then get someone to make me a header tank that fits whatever space is left.
Always hated plastic tanks anyway :)
Any new pics Rob?
Nothing really to see yet, all the bits I've done are tiny.
Hey Rob, have you done any work to your Golf of late?
Started on fuel system.
Had to remove fuel tank to get to lines from lift pump.
Going to use new -6 lines through out.
New surge tank and Bosch 044 main pump.
New filter and mount.
Quote from: robh on October 02, 2012, 08:37:05 AM
Started on fuel system.
Had to remove fuel tank to get to lines from lift pump.
Going to use new -6 lines through out.
New surge tank and Bosch 044 main pump.
New filter and mount.
very nice.
That filter mount is a nice piece of kit. I was thinking about this car the other day. Good to see your still chipping away at it.
my favorite mk2!!!
Ive been taken round Puke in it. Fastest car I've ever been in, I was good and scared. I think my girly fear was one of the reasons Rob has decided to cage the beast.
Surge tank mounted, not my best work.
But only have limited skills and tools at home so will have to do.
Done most of fuel lines now, just need to get the right size hose mounts in and put fuel tank back in place.
Will probably redo the line from the fuel filter to the rail so it has more hose in it to allow for engine movement.
more pics
one from underneath...
Hey Rob.
What did you do with your tank breather pipe?
That rocks.
Its such a good idea to do fuel systems properly. That will be the first thing I do to my Fiat if I keep it and do stuff in it is to get a fuel cell off trade me and fit it.
Oh and I can see your anti roll bar link is missing a bolt?
Mounted accusump...
Mounted power steering pump...
Have come to a stop on radiators. Mounted up larger Passat VR6 rad, thats ok, but not enough room for larger intercooler rad. I'm giving serious thought to boot mounting the intercooler rad and feeding air to it from naca ducts in perspex side windows. Didn't really want to do this but the front is so light on space.
I had to trim some of the slam panel on the front I take it you have done this already.
Quote from: robh on January 03, 2013, 09:46:09 AM
Have come to a stop on radiators. Mounted up larger Passat VR6 rad, thats ok, but not enough room for larger intercooler rad. I'm giving serious thought to boot mounting the intercooler rad and feeding air to it from naca ducts in perspex side windows. Didn't really want to do this but the front is so light on space.
If you have to end up doing this it could look quite Boss I think.
Some bits I managed to get done before work stopped for a hip replacement.
Oil line from accusump to shutoff valve.
Oil line through to bulkhead fitting, covered line with some thermal cover so passengers don't burn their leg.
Oil line from bulkhead to oil cooler.
Oil cooler from Mazda RX :) and non return valve so Accusump can't pressurise the oil pump in the wrong direction.
Mocal oil take off, this thing was a mare to fit, no room with such large lines, had to grind a ridge off Oil Filter housing and could only get to fit with fittings that had exactly the right radius :(
And now the wife wants garage back, something to do with it raining and winter, blah, blah, blah!
Finish it!!!
Quote from: robh on June 07, 2013, 10:29:52 PM
And now the wife wants garage back, something to do with it raining and winter, blah, blah, blah!
Whatever you do, don't let her have her way; it'll be all over from there (typing quickly before my wife comes back into the room)
selective hearing is a good one also
"I miss this car" bump - what's happening on this thing Rob?
Quote from: Filx on November 04, 2014, 05:50:46 PM
"I miss this car" bump - what's happening on this thing Rob?
Yeah Rob, this car is awesome. Updates?
Have proper man cave now, just had hoist installed and have plenty of space to work now.
Working on mounting the radiator for intercooler inside car behind front seats with air ducted in through rear side window naca ducts.
Also done a bit of work on some of radiator pipes, intercooler plumbing, intercooler mount and mounted a really nice bmc carbon air filter.
Quote from: RS ZWEI on November 05, 2014, 07:37:02 AM
Yeah Rob, this car is awesome. Updates?
Quote from: robh on November 08, 2014, 11:01:43 PM
Have proper man cave now, just had hoist installed and have plenty of space to work now.
Working on mounting the radiator for intercooler inside car behind front seats with air ducted in through rear side window naca ducts.
Also done a bit of work on some of radiator pipes, intercooler plumbing, intercooler mount and mounted a really nice bmc carbon air filter.
YEAH YEAH YEAH YEAH PICTURES
please
Hey Rob, how is the Mk2 coming along?
Very very slowly, have had stuff going on with house at home.
Car on shiney new hoist.
revised turbo plumbing and coolant lines.
Very very old thread, but finally made a restart on this project.
Have some room in workshop now the Vento has moved on.
Mates helped me remove the engine/box so we can make a start on strengthening engine.
Pull sump and have installed ARP Rods bolts, next stop is head gasket space to lower CR and install ARP Head bolts...
This is going to be worth the wait!
whoop whoop! its about time Rob!
Awesome, this car is so cool.
Ill never forget riding shot gun in this car on the road to port waikato. I think to the light house or something
Rob entering a corner that quickly became a hard 90
Rob calmly saying ?oh damn that was a bit quick?
Quote from: ziptie.nz on July 23, 2020, 09:18:53 PM
Ill never forget riding shot gun in this car on the road to port waikato. I think to the light house or something
Rob entering a corner that quickly became a hard 90
Rob calmly saying ?oh damn that was a bit quick?
Yeah, front end is heavy with the old 12v donk in there. Front shocks were rooted as well, found that out later!
Head gasket spacer and ARP head studs done.
Went to reassemble turbo, exhaust manifold, etc but exhaust manifold had a bit of rust forming internally. Decided to get it procoated but they had run out of the "super duper" black stuff and it took several weeks for it to land from the US.
External wastegate wasn't sealing properly so spent some time getting that sorted, reassembled it all on the bench.
Test fitted to engine, but not happy with the way compressor housing clears engine, so going to have a bit of a fiddle to try and work out best way to create a bit more clearance.