Quote from: mark2 golf on August 13, 2024, 10:06:44 AMIs the eurowise one for RHD though?

Good Call! It would have tripped me up.

Thank Gosh I didnt need to find out.

The Engine is pretty much squared away now. Time to crack into the small little issues around the car.

Bumpers and Trim.

This one is nice and easy!

I tried the old heat gun method in the past and its all crap... It never lasted. It would look great for a couple of weeks and the plastic would always fade back to that Dull Grey colour....

WELL NOT THIS TIME!!!

I invested in a couple of Rattle Cans of SEM Trim Black. Its an Acrylic Base Paint which is GOOD, because acrylic is flexible!

Prep was easy, Soapy wash, Prep with Isopropol Alchohol on some Scotch Brite Pad and then wipe clean with Prepsol/Wax and Grease remover and a rag. Dont use thinners.. That would be dumb...

Then just do 3 coats of SEM Trim Black.

I did mine back in October last year (10 months) an absolutely no fade. NOTE! The car has been sitting under a car cover so dont come at me if the UV damages your bumpers...

Holy moly, stopped browsing the forums for a little bit and this comes up!?

Hydraulic Clutch

Iv had afew chats to people over the years of this build regarding clutch options.
You will have seen earlier in the blog I touched on this but thought Id go a lil further into it.

Originally, I was going to keep the 020 because im cheap! but also, it needed no modification. I knew the 020 would eventually curl over and die but its what I had.

Then I drove an 020! The gear changes were sweet once the push rod is setup but the cable clutch was alway abit crap... In my case the Auto adjuster was cooked and the bite point and clutch feel were always off.

Eventually I came to my senses and got an 02J Gearbox and had to bite the bullet on Hyd Clutch. There are afew options:
- Drill and reinforce the firewall to mount a master cylinder. But, Space was limited in the engine bay and I had read some forums of the firewall buckling when you press the pedal.
- Install a Passat pedal box? apparently some old passats had Hyd Clutches and can fit in a MK2? unsure. But old parts like that are hard to find in NZ.
- Or go with an aftermarket option. Which I did.

I Installed the Fabless Manufacturing Hyd Clutch Kit. It came with all the brackets and the Hose to fit into the MK4 02J Slave Cylinder. I also ordered the recommended Master Cyl. All up $500 nzd.

https://www.fablessmanufacturing.com/collections/swap-parts/products/hydraulic-clutch-conversion-kit-rhd-vw-mk2?variant=19200718045253

It arrived with no instructions so abit of fiddling around was needed. I got it fitted up with the reservoir in the recommended position under the dash. This was such a crap spot, It was impossible to fill up even with a syringe. I pulled it out and mounted it up on the Engine bay gutter, threading the hose through the old clutch cable hole.

I used a vacuum bleeder to suck all the air out from the Slave and got the clutch working ok, but it wouldnt dissengage all the way. I found the master cylinder was slightly off axis and the piston wasnt being depressed all the way with the pedal at the floor. It needed a little bit of massaging, Oversizing some of the master Cyl attach holes to get some movement etc.

But, It all worked out mint! Clutch feels great and really happy with the install.

Wheels and Tires!

Time for some Visual Progress!

Over my now 5 years of Golf owership, I have kept an eye on Trademe and Marketplace for wheel options for the old Mk2 and to be honest there hasnt been much come up. Iv seen some nice 4x100 Porsche wheels come up for sale and couple of BBS basket weaves but man they are $$$$$. Anywhere from $1800 to $3500 for a set. Let alone trying to find the right Offset.

I knew if I wanted to get the right size and fitment, Id have to buy new.

The trick to buying wheels is no suprise, Measuring.
I Measured the current wheel size, Guard Clearance and Ground clearance. (Which was a generous 30mm... Haha) and from there I could figure out the Rim Diameter, offset and tire size. It was a balancing act as I wanted to keep a relitively period correct rim size (15in) but didnt want to run 205/65 tires to get the correct ground clearance (as they would be TOO Chunky) so I had to play around with ride height and tire sizes to get the right fit. Bear in mind that this is all calculations too.

Being a "On a Budget Build" I surfed around until I settled on a set of BBS RS reps. (Yea I know, Come at me. Im too poor for Real ones!) They are a Set of Lenso BSX 15x7 ET 35. All up $2k NZD to my door for the set.

For tires, There wasnt heaps of "Street" options. The 15in tire selection is swamped with economy options and suprisingly alot of more "Race/Track" options. I settled on a set of Michelin Pilot Sport 3 195/50 tires. I have run PS4s and PS5 tires on my Newer Golf and Now S3 and have loved the perfromace and there durability. Unfortunately the newer Pilot Sport tires arnt manufactured in 15in so PS3 it is.

Once fitted I was sooooo stoaked.

Just need 20mm spacers in the rear and abit of work on the ride height.

With the new wheels fitted, I could finaly go for a lap of my cul de sac.

Everything seemed good, Brakes worked, Clutch felt good, speedo worked etc. Time to lean on the gas abit.

BANG!!!!!!

oh no.

I pushed in the clutch and the car died....

Classic, I had a feeling that I knew what had happened.

After opening the bonnet I found the Turbo Outlet elbow had come loose and slammed into the bonnet on boost. Looking back I recall the turbo outlet elbow being a looser fit, But it was the OEM elbow? so what the hell? I just cranked on the clamp.

Turns out the K03 Turbo and K03s have different output flange diameters. K03 is 2.25in and K03s is 2in. Odd

So, I ripped out all the Intercooler piping, ordered the correct size elbow and FINALLY did it propperly by rolling some beads on the end of the pipes.

Attempt one found that the tool we had at work was too big for my 2.25in piping so another tool was needed. Found one online for $60 and got cracking.

Things have slowed down abit,

The car is together and running, so just tidying up loose ends before WOF and Cert.

Todays loose end are the inner headlights, Fog lights, Little lights.... Whatever you wana call them..

This one is abit of a mystery, What are they? Fog Lights? High Beams? Driving Lights? Can somone explain?

So the car has the lights fitted with an aftermarket loom, Relay fitted in the engine bay all wired to a 2 postion Fog Light Switch on the dash. They worked when it was a diesel, Tho they drew sooo much power that the engine would almost stall at lights at night with all the lights on.

As there fitted, they need to work for a WOF. So I gave them a quick birthday with some new Wiring Tape and got them fitted.

Roof Gutter Seals,

Any Mk2 owner knows that these are worth there weight in gold.
I was fortunate to inherate a good set on the old Diesel Mk2, The set on the old 85 Gti were flogged..

They really seem to get a beating from the sun, They tend to fade, loose there smoothness and start to dry rott.
One of mine was bad enough to start delaminating from the Aluminium channel.

As far as I am aware, I have not been able to find a seller for the Roof Gutter Channel Trim itself. (the hard rubber part with the aluminium channel) BUT! you can buy new seals for them. The seal is the part glued on which creates a water ish tight seal agaist the doors.

The Seals can be replaced as they tend to fall apart, or debond from the Gutter Channel Trim. I found that this processes was poorly documented so I might give it a go and maybe somone can learn a thing or two?



I purchased a new set of seals from:
https://vintagerubber.com/golf-gti-jetta-mk2-drip-rail-replacement-strip/

others do similar kits:
https://www.fitted.tw/product-page/mk2-golf-jetta-roof-gutter-rebuild-kit-3d-5d
https://golfmk2parts.com/products/pre-order-golf-and-jetta-mk2-roof-gutter-rubber-replacement-kit?srsltid=AfmBOor7QLrs-XB2Wnlg10fpWpflbqnyR1AAioROHj66JXk9Pz2i3Gw4

As for the Gutter Trim Clips: 191-853-733/A
You can get these from Mitch @ VDubshoppee in Ngaruawahia
https://vdubshoppe.co.nz/?srsltid=AfmBOopW79Zcksj3YBccNO1yCGXZJGwL5MtmXTg_pl2Q8U7p8Lyangir

How too:

Once you have your Gutter trim removed and on a bench, Start by peeling off all the old seal, Cut any of the left over seal off with a razor (be carefull not to cut the Gutter) then its into the prep.


Good time get out some soap and clean the whole gutter trim, scrub it well and good! Leave it our to dry before carrying on.

Once dry, Scuff up the surface where the new seal will bond too. I use a steel wire brush but some 300 sand paper will work too. Then give the bonding surface of the seal and Gutter Trim a good degrease with some Isopropel Alcohol (IPA).

Now... what glue?
I have seen two options,
1. Use adhesive promoter and contact adhesive (Ados F2, 3M 1300L) If you can get 3M 1300L and 3M 86A Adhesive promoter, it would be a good shout.. as for Ados F2, Its just abit crap in this application. It gets affected by the heat and gives up to easy.
2. Super glue! Its fast and relitively reliable if you prep good for a rubber on rubber bond. Its abit harder/brittle but also easy to repair. This was my choice.

I found starting from the rear and working in sections of about 150mm at a time was best, Glueing and holding, Glueing and holding.

Trim it at the end and DONE. (I may have trimmed it abit short? we will see)

Great attention to detail. Good job on the forum write-ups too.

Epic work mate, she's come together nicely. I'm sure you're stoked with the outcome thus far.

Been Busy on the golf.

I had some deadlines to meet as I have Wheel alignment, Wof and Cert Booked.

First of all was the suspension.
I jacked up the car and checked torqued all the fasteners, Set up preload and ride height.

It was alot of Faffing, Up down, more height in the rear, less in the front... rah rah rah....
But i got there! Ride height was looking good.

The ride quality in past was very rough so i set the dampening on the Coilovers on the soft side.

Off for a lap of the block!

Disaster struck... I caught the inside of my guard with the tire and put a good size groove in a fresh front tyre...

UGH! guess ill be rolling those guards then..
Afew calls later and I had a Guard roller in my hands.... But it took some faffing to get it to fit inside my gaurds. the hub was too close to the guard (small rim problems) so i had to either removed the shock or modify the roller.

I chose not to remove my shocks haha!

Now for the rears. I had a set of 20mm rear spacers on order since early August, and had just been notified that they will not be delivered prior to my Cert Date. I called upon the community and 2 very genorous members leant me some spacers to use for Cert. I hummed and harred as the spacers I had borrowed were either 15mm or 25mm. Abit too small or abit to big.

After all the fuss I chose to leave them out. Too much hassel this close to Cert day.

Suspension sorted, Time for my first appointment.

I dragged the car over the Harbour Bridge to Chis and the Lads at TyreTech in Wairau (Absolute Legends) for a wheel alignement.

Afew adjustments were needed to get the camber and toe in. I had done a pretty crap job at setting the steering rack ends... haha!

Afew an hour on the alignement rack she was minter.

Back on the trailer and into the work hangar ready for WOF in a couple days.

WOF.

Wof was the next job to tick off. I took the car down to Motorworks in Rosedale for the lads to have a look over.

They are pretty familiar with the VW Products and specilise in old Porsches.

It didnt go without a hitch! 4 defects to sort

- Front LH Wheel bearing play
- LH rear door wont open
- Fuel Leak at the manifold
- Drivers seat slider is dicky

Fuel leak was easy, Tighten the hose clamp.

Wheel bearing was easy too. I had installed new bearing but i torqued the axle nut with the wheel on the ground. Instead, I backed off the axle nut. Jacked the car up and torqued the axle nut with the wheel off the ground. (with a mate on the brakes) that pulled the bearing together nice and square.

LH rear door was missing the inside door lock handle. A golf Tee seemed like a fitting replacement.

Drivers door slider dicky. You had to lean back on the seat to get it to click in. I stuffed around with nylon blocks to shim the seat up but nothing worked.Turns out the metal that the seat slides on just bends downward overtime so bend it back up! Boom sorted. Seat works mint and clicks in like a dream.

CERT DAY.

The day has come, Time for all my hard work to be inspected.

An agonising wait all day produced one defect.

The front brake lines could contact the front tires at full lock.

A couple of P-Clmaps and off for a recheck.

PASSED!

WOOOHOOO

Quote from: TimmyG on October 25, 2024, 03:46:52 PMWOF.

Wof was the next job to tick off. I took the car down to Motorworks in Rosedale for the lads to have a look over.

They are pretty familiar with the VW Products and specilise in old Porsches.

It didnt go without a hitch! 4 defects to sort

- Front LH Wheel bearing play
- LH rear door wont open
- Fuel Leak at the manifold
- Drivers seat slider is dicky

Fuel leak was easy, Tighten the hose clamp.

Wheel bearing was easy too. I had installed new bearing but i torqued the axle nut with the wheel on the ground. Instead, I backed off the axle nut. Jacked the car up and torqued the axle nut with the wheel off the ground. (with a mate on the brakes) that pulled the bearing together nice and square.

LH rear door was missing the inside door lock handle. A golf Tee seemed like a fitting replacement.

Drivers door slider dicky. You had to lean back on the seat to get it to click in. I stuffed around with nylon blocks to shim the seat up but nothing worked.Turns out the metal that the seat slides on just bends downward overtime so bend it back up! Boom sorted. Seat works mint and clicks in like a dream.

You are actually missing a slider bush that clips into that hole on the floor bracket tip. Makes a big difference to slide easier and for seat to move around less. See the seethrough parts in this link. It also shows a parts diagram picture.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/175357405036?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=k4vrw0bfqv2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=bt0D5N1VTn6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY