Update on the Oak Green 1.8T Mk2.

Iv put about 3000km on the car since she was Certed in October and its been great! What an Epic Car!

No majors (yet) but alot of touch ups...

BOOOOOOOOSTing
Number 1 "issue" from the get go was how quick it was.... Driving to work on the motorway, 4th gear up the Auckland Harbour Bridge nearly put me into the barrier when the boost hit... One wheel SCCCREAMing with the open diff... 5th gear 100kmh it would spin a wheel...
BUT!
After 2-3 seconds it would cut the spark and throw me forward in my seat...
I swapped out the Wastegate actuator sensor and same problem.
After staring at the Waste Gate Hoses for a couple minutes i notice that my Boost Sense line was infact attached to the Intake hose pre turbo.. Plumbing the Boost line to the Right Boost Source fixed everything...
Its not as Rapid now but much more driveable.

Mushy Brakes
Both the Cert Guy and WOf man said the same thing, "Brakes are average at best"
The pedal had a good inch and a half nothing before something happened and when it did happen it was average...
I battled with bleeding the brakes, did them another 3 times, No luck
Replaced all the brakes with new rotors and pads, Better but not AMAZING
Adjusted the brake pedal Backlash/Deadspot, That removed a good inch of dead travel but the brakes still felt Meh,
Ended up buying a Pressure Bleeder which got ALLL the air out, I purged a whole bottle off Dot 4 through the system and its OK.
I might look at some fancy EBC pads in the future to give the brakes some Bite, but am living with the OK brakes atm.



Degrading Clutch Pedal
I have an O2J Transmission with a Hyd Clutch, after afew drives it started to deteriorate. Grab Point had moved further toward the firwall.
after some investigation i found that when i pushed in the Clutch pedal to the floor it would bend the Master Cylinder Shaft!
I removed the Maste Cyl, Straightened the shaft and adjusted the clutch pedal/master cyl to ensure I hit the pedal limit before the Master Cyl Piston limit



Other Issues
- Factory seats are lovely to sit ON, but awful around corners! need to go...
- The Heater Matrix is run off Eng Vacuum, it works fine until I accelerate and get on boost, It then changes all the valve positions and blows air elsewhere!
- Brand new RH Window Regulator got fullllllll of water and doesnt work, I got it stuck in the Full Down position.. not fun
- A clunk at full steering lock? Found the Steering rack bolts through the subframe were tight but not 5 white knuckles tight. That fixed that
- The Throttle position is horrible! drives over an hour long kill my RH calf...
- 02J Shift tower has heaps of side to side slop, Diesel Geeks First Gear Getter Bush sorted it. (But $120 NZD shipped... Ouch)

But it all of the negitives do not outweigh how epic it is to drive! Definately Turns heads and sounds great.

Photo Credit Ash V.

Found that the wagon has a specific mount for the DCC module which I had to wait for, if it wasn't for stripping the car for the repair cert I don't think I would have done any of this.

Removed all of the door cards to install the Dynaudio speakers and make the needed wiring changes, interestingly the rear doors required wiring to be added for the tweeters which are controlled separately by the amplifier.
Had to run a new MOST fiber optic cable to connect the amplifier to the media unit and virtual cluster, these are all connected together in a loop.
Mounted a used amplifier to the floor under the passenger seat and once powered up and coded via VCDS had component protection removed with Odis online.
After install once coded everything works but it only has output to one speaker with component protection active so at least you know everything is working.
By now the dash and console are back in starting to look like a car again, adding all of this wiring is a lot of work if you don't want it to look like a mess, you end up taking the whole car apart to get it done.
Even getting access to the back of the fuse box to insert the required power wires is pretty difficult but it was 100% worth it to pull the dash.

Had a similar thing on an old 80. Araldite. I formed both the anchor and the tub and allowed it week to set, before shaping and reassembly. Used black vinyl spray paint on the tub.

Couldn't tell from a glance

Opened the passenger door and the door pocket caught on the rubber seal...snap!
It can go naked for now, it has been repaired before and every original connection point is broken.
It looks okay like that and also gives weight savings

My plan was to install everything and then power up each component one at a time and doing the coding till I had a fault free car again before moving on to the next retrofit, Otherwise it would become a coding / fault code nightmare making that many changes at one time.
Having to run wiring from left to right and using factory looms, certainly in the case of PDC/ Self park and Dynaudio I figured out pretty quickly the best and most tidy way would be to remove the console and dashboard so that the wiring could be run in the same place as the factory loom at the base of the windscreen.
See how the rabbit hole got deeper?

Passenger seat, console and dash out it gave much easier access also to getting the wiring out to the engine bay for the DCC and parking sensors.
The DCC would end up needing accelerometers on the LH rear shock tower and both front towers, level sensors on the front control arms, left rear suspension, DCC module in the boot and of course wiring to each shock absorber along with can bus connections, power and grounds.
While the Ali DCC loom was really nice, instructions were in Chinese and most of the wiring was too long so some of that I shortened to make it tidier.
Got the PLA3.0 installed and powered up first, quite a bit of coding required to make it work and display correctly on the info screen, all seemed to be ok but I'd have to wait till it was driveable again before the self park could be tested. A good sign at least it displayed on the virtual cluster.

Just an update, as it annoys me when I find threads that don't get resolved.
Out new coils in and while there pulled the spark plugs to inspect. They were rather oily so I cleaned them with petrol and they then looked about right. Put them back in with the new coils and car was about 80% right. Monitored hundreds of misfires before cleaning them and just one on a test drive afterwards. 
But after a couple days it was crap again.
Booked it in to Dodson Motorsport. They found the oil was very 'fuels' and upon further investigation found a split seal on the HPFP.
So, new HPFP (I think it may have been changed from banjo style to flexi line style, but I'll look soon) along with cam follower, fuel filter seals etc.
I ordered a new turbo which they installed which came with a new diverter valve and all gaskets.
Turned out I had a split gasket between the turbo manifold and block and the turbo spindle has noticeable play.
They had to clean out a lot of oil that had bypassed the turbo too.
Anyway, car running well again on stock settings. After 500km of being gentle to the new turbo I'll reinstall my upgraded HPFP internals and change to stage 2+ again.
Might even give it a clean...

That same TDI I'm wrecking had a full Dynaudio system in it and late last year I fitted, coded it to a VASK members car with a wiring harness sourced from Aliexpress. Being a used amplifier I had CP removed remotely and once working I instantly regretted selling that set up.
Remember that rabbit hole I mentioned going down? Well, not only did I strip the TDI's wire harness to remove the factory Dynaudio wiring and started piecing together all of the parts I would need to do another Dynaudio retrofit!

At some point later chatting to a mate about how DCC would be a nice to have he offered me a full set of DCC shocks at a price so cheap I couldn't say no to. Little did I know how involved this retrofit would become.
I thought DCC module, shocks, the front level sensors (Which I already had) and a wire harness from Aliexpress would be all I'd need. Should have done more research..........
No, also required 3x accelerometers, front uprights and new wheel bearings to suit said uprights. Stock shocks are 50mm vs DCC 55mm.
With all of that underway the list was getting longer and the rabbit hole deeper.
Retrofit / Code:
Direct Chassis Control
PLA3.0 Self parking / PDC
Dynaudio
GTI front and rear brakes I had laying around. 
Since some of the back was already stripped for the certifier I carried on and removed everything else. But wait there's more.......yes I did wonder at times why am I doing this.

there is some glorious stuff in here, McLaren M7 bi-plane, Howmett and Lotus Indy and F1 turbines, numerous Pikes Peak cars, AUDI racers all running up (and down) the hill at Goodwood

Failed a WOF for a noisy steering rack - it sounds like something is binding and releasing (sounds almost like a slow creaking noise) as you turn the wheel. No leaks that I know of. 1996 S6 sedan.

 Does anyone know of anyone who might be able to rebuild these things?

There is a rack available ex Audi tradition but is is an earlier non-servotronic rack AND it has the earlier smaller passenger side mount bolt (M8 vs later M10). I'm not that fussed about lack of servotronic but with the different mount bolt I guess I might be able to drill it out but don't really want to order it and then find out it's not really feasible). The rack in my car is 4A2422065AK.  Cheers